It had been on Saskia's bucket list for years: Braderie de Lille, Europe's largest flea market. Nearly 100 kilometres of browsing along stalls during the first weekend of September. Put on your walking shoes, make sure you have enough cash in your wallet and bring a big bag. We take you along and have handy insider tips, because pooh... Europe's biggest flea market requires a bit of preparation. We've got you.
Where is the Braderie de Lille?
To travel all the way to the French town of Lille (also known as Lille) for a second-hand market? It sounds like quite an undertaking, but it's not that bad. The city is just across the border with Belgium, less than three hours' drive from Amsterdam. You really are in France - the language, the bakers, the food - but at the same time it feels surprisingly Flemish. That atmosphere is especially noticeable when you arrive on Friday, the day before the bric-a-brac market opens. The city is buzzing with preparations by then, but it is still quiet enough to explore everything at your leisure. For me, Lille felt like a lite version of Paris: beautiful old buildings, atmospheric streets, fine terraces and a touch of grandeur, but smaller, more manageable and accessible. It also reminded me a bit of Ghent or Antwerp.
But once the market opens, everything changes. On the first weekend of September, the whole city is filled with stalls for the Braderie de Lille, Europe's biggest bric-a-brac market. Almost a hundred kilometres of second-hand treasures: crockery, furniture, clothes, toys, books, art and much more. The atmosphere turns to lively, busy and exuberant. A party, a bit like Koningsdag in Amsterdam. In short, one you should prepare for.
A city tour for Lille, the day before the second-hand market kicks off.
Braderie de Lille: the best streets for second-hand shopping
With almost three million visitors in one weekend, it can get pretty busy. Very busy. Especially in the centre of Lille (around Place du Général-de-Gaulle, Place du Theatre and Rue de la Monnaie, among others), which fills up with people from around 11 o'clock onwards. You really do walk shoulder to shoulder then. No problem if you like it, but I prefer the quieter streets just outside the heart of the party. There you will find surprisingly many nice things and more space to look around.
Therefore, the best tip is: arrive early. Or even better: book a nice little hotel and arrive as early as Friday (a fine hotel tip follows soon!). Start your stroll on Saturday morning between 08:00 and 09:00 at the Façade de l'Esplanade. This is the most beautiful part of the market, along the water and under the trees. You'll find plenty of bric-a-brac, curios and trinkets and it's still nice and quiet then.
By the time the big crowds start, you will have already explored this area. Between 10:00 and 11:00, you can continue walking towards Boulevard de la Liberté. There, the market continues for kilometres. Definitely keep browsing! But actually, the real tip is in the side streets. That's where locals often stand with rugs or small stalls full of clothes, children's toys, furniture and home accessories. No professional sellers, just locals who have cleaned out their attic. And there you can still find a real gem at a friendly price. Streets like Rue Boileux and the small streets around it, such as Rue Patou and Rue de Bourgogne, are highly recommended.
Lunchtime! And let me warn you right away: if you don't like mussels, you're in trouble. During the Braderie, almost all restaurants in town serve only one thing: moules-frites. In all variations, by the way: with cream, curry, garlic, tomato... you name it. So as a mussel lover, you're in the right place. As a vegan... slightly less so. Then you better bring your own. Fancy something else? Reasonably on the route, we discovered Cul de Poule, a cosy French eatery with remarkably different dishes from mussels.
After lunch, walk on to a quieter part of Lille. There is plenty to see and explore along the way. Navigate to Boulevard Papin and make sure you eventually end up at Parc Jean-Baptiste Lebas. The park is unfortunately closed during the fair, but around the park you can also find - surprisingly, yep - lots of second-hand. Here there are many locals with their own stuff. No stalls full of expensive antiques, but again as in the aforementioned side streets, more rugs and tables with toys, clothes, accessories and small furniture. Just the place to find another treasure. Tip: with small children (under eight), the ‘braderie des enfants’ is also highly recommended. You'll also find those in this neighbourhood at Gare Saint Saveur Lille. Big kids and teenagers will have more fun on the streets around the park. Toys and children's clothes galore!
You've probably taken around 30,000 steps by now with this route, so you're probably ready for a break and a nice refreshing drink. A great tip is L'écart Café (sans website and social media - those are often the best tips). This is a creative neighbourhood café, just behind the party scene, so a lot quieter. Perfect for catching your breath or ending the day.
Early morning at the bric-a-brac market on Façade de l'Esplanade.
Practical tips for the antiques market in Lille
What to bring. Good preparation is half the battle, even at the Braderie de Lille. Take a backpack and put a folding shopper in it. Handy if you find more than you intended. That's guaranteed to happen... The real pros bring a trolley, but honestly? That's especially handy in the early hours. As soon as it gets crowded, you quickly find yourself in the way. Further: cash is key! Most vendors don't have a pin and don't do payment requests via Tikkie or your banking app. And the queues at ATMs are long. So pin in advance, saves you a lot of time and aggravation.
What should also not be missing in your rucksack: a snack, bottle of water, sunburner and sunglasses or cap if the weather is nice. Is rain forecast? Then a mackintosh or umbrella is no luxury. And wear comfortable shoes, because you will be walking. Lots of steps, especially with this fun route. Read more useful tips to prepare for a day of treasure hunting here.
By train or car to the Lille flea market
Lille is easy to reach by train, which is actually not a bad idea at all during this party. Especially from the Netherlands. With the fastest connection, you can get to the heart of Lille from Amsterdam in around 2.5 hours. Usually you travel with Eurostar or Thalys and have to change trains in Brussels. During the fair, the city is largely closed to cars. Coming by car anyway? Then park at a P+R on the edge of the city or choose one of these car parks: Parking Euralille - Gare Lille Europe, Parking Effia - Gare Lille Flandres or Parking Zenpark Euralille. Before leaving, check the latest parking tips at the organisation's website.
Sustainable hotel tip in Lille
Looking for a nice hotel in Lille? A great sleeping tip for on your greener list is Oceania Lille Les Augustins. Truly a picture: housed in an old bank building, in a great location in town. You are close to everything, but just outside the main bustle of the fair. In short, ideal to take a breather before heading out again for round two. The best detail? The swimming pool in the old vault. Add to that a breakfast with a big ten and the sustainable mission of this hotel, the first low carbon hotel in Lille, and you've found your perfect place to sleep in Lille. Another advantage: if you sleep here the night before the festivities, you can start the whole route first thing in the morning. And then you'll also have the chance to enjoy authentic Lille on Friday, without the fairground madness.
Looking for a cool (and sustainable) hotel in Lille? Then check out Oceania Lille Les Augustins. We thought it was a lovely hotel with pool and spa! Watch the hotel's video report here.
Discovering Lille before the fair
Wander through atmospheric streets like Rue de la Monnaie, Rue au Pétérinck, Place aux Oignons, Place des Patiniers, Rue de la Clef, Rue Basse and Rue Le Pelletier. For lunch, settle down at one of the cosy eateries on Rue Saint-Jacques or at La Wilderie, where you literally sit among the plants. In the evening, slide into Britney, the bistro of the future with original dishes and surprising flavour combinations you won't find anywhere else. And for those who like to take home something tasty: don't walk away without a box of Larnicol. Their chocolates and kouignettes (Breton puff pastry biscuits with pure churned butter) are France (or well actually Brittany) in a box and make your day complete.
Britney aims to be the bistro formula of the future with seasoned (shared) dining dishes, including plenty of vegetarian choices like the cauliflower popcorn and pink pasta. By choosing this restaurant, you also immediately otncover a cosy neighbourhood.
Here's how to make the Braderie de Lille an unforgettable weekend
With this itinerary, tips and practical facts, you are all set for the Braderie de Lille. From an early browse along the Esplanade to the cosiness of the side streets, from a great sustainable hotel to recharge your batteries to tips for kids: you now have everything you need to experience the festival of the year relaxed and well prepared. One thing is for sure: once you have been, you will put the Braderie de Lille on your agenda again next year.
More flea markets to discover
- Also see: the Betonnerie in Utrecht is an awesome market with festival vibes.
- Also see: the boot market at the Ouderkerkerplas is a hidden gem right near Amsterdam.
- Also see: the IJ-Hallen in Amsterdam is a place that keeps you coming back as a second-hand shopper!
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
