Northwest Friesland is nice and quick for the westerners among us to reach via the Afsluitdijk. Yet it feels like driving into a completely different world. Saskia went exploring in this beautiful region and mapped out a nice itinerary. Whether you want a weekend break or just a day trip, we take you along our favourite greener addresses. From an impressive planetarium in Franeker to a historic inn in Kimswerd and a fairytale nature garden in Tzum. Fancy it? Come along!
North West Friesland: close by, yet away from it all
In cooperation with Visit Friesland
Northwest Friesland proves once again, you don't have to go far away at all for a completely different world. From Amsterdam, you drive to Harlingen or Franeker in less than an hour and a half, and yet it feels like you're really travelling. This is one of those regions in the Netherlands where you immediately catch your breath. The skies are vast, the villages charming and nature is all around you. What makes this area so special? The combination of peace, nature, picturesque villages and creative, friendly entrepreneurs who do everything to make you feel at home. You drive past stately farms, twittering meadow birds and old churches that proudly tower above the landscape. And if you look carefully, you will also discover inspiring green addresses, often just a little hidden. From an inn with a story to a garden full of wild flowers: this region in Friesland is surprisingly versatile. And yes, we were immediately enthusiastic. I am sure you will be too soon.
Stop 1: Franeker city walk and visit planetarium
We start our route in Franeker, perhaps Northwest Friesland's best-kept secret. This former university town (really!) is compact and packed with atmosphere and history. In short, perfect to spend an afternoon exploring. Start your visit with a city walk: walk along the canals and cosy alleys past old mansions, hidden courtyards and the imposing Martini Church. You don't have to be a history freak to get excited here. And then to the highlight: the famous Eise Eisinga Planetarium. This is not just any museum, but the oldest working planetarium in the world, and since 2023 officially UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here you will learn all about our solar system and how brilliant Eise Eisinga was over 240 years ago.
After your visit, head into Franeker or settle down at one of its cosy cafés. Tip: at Brasserie the City Garden, right next to the Planetarium, you can eat surprisingly good vegetarian or vegan food. You sit there in beautiful art deco surroundings or - weather permitting - outside in the garden. Do you still have some time left? Then drop in at the Chorister's house. In this charming mini-museum, where the door is always open and you can enter for free, you will discover what life was like for the grain carriers of yesteryear.
City walk through Franeker with the Korendragershuisje on the left.
Stop 2: check in at Inn Greate Pier
After your exploration of Franeker, it's time to check in at the sleeping place: Hotel Greate Pier in the village of Kimswerd. This is not a standard hotel, but a small-scale inn named after the legendary Frisian freedom fighter Grutte Pier. The atmosphere is friendly, the welcome warm and the rooms? They are all beautifully decorated, each one slightly different. Everything exudes style and attention. This is the kind of place that makes you happy.
Also nice: the rooms are surprisingly affordable. You pay 92.50 euros for a standard room and you can book a deluxe room from 100 euros. Just check the current prices on the website, because they can of course change. And then the breakfast... it really deserves a separate mention. Warm croissants, fresh fruit and delicious coffee - all served at your table. You don't often see (and taste) such a start to the day. So: add that breakfast for 15 euros per person. Really do it! Read more about Boutique Hotel Greate Pier in this article.
From the inn, you can walk or cycle straight into nature. There are beautiful routes along the dike, through the meadows or towards the Wadden Sea. So take your time, because you won't want to leave in a hurry.
A hotel tip for your weekend getaway in Friesland: Hotel Greate Pier in Kimswerd. Watch the video here of our visit to Franeker and to this cool hostel.
Stop 3: fine dining at Toscanini Franeker
For a great, more sustainable restaurant experience, we go back to Franeker. Because for an evening of good food ánd a good story, you need to be at Toscanini Franeker be. This charming restaurant is run by chef Johannes van Assen, who knows exactly how to bring taste and storytelling together on the plate. You can order a nice pasta a la carte here or just go for a nice pizza, but the real must? Ask for the vegetarian or vegan surprise menu. You will then be served a series of refined dishes, with a local twist. This is how they cook Italian food here, but with ingredients from their own Frisian soil. Like naked oats: a primal Dutch grain that grows well in Friesland. This is supplied by The Oats Cooperative, a collective of farmers committed to sustainable, regenerative agriculture and the reintroduction of forgotten grains. And if the weather is fine, you can sit out here.
Sustainable dining out in Franeker at Toscanini.
Stop 4: ‘Food from your own garden’ workshop in Tzum
After a good night's sleep at the inn, we set out with a blast of a finale. In the village of Tzum, close to Franeker and Harlingen, you'll find a hidden gem: Nature garden Sober. Here Karin runs her beautiful, organic garden full of edible flowers, plants and mushrooms. And the best part? She teaches you all about it during a delicious workshop ‘Food from your own garden’. Together with Karin, you pick your ingredients and get to work in her outdoor kitchen. Together with her, we made a mushroom burger from her own garden with a fresh flower salad made of home-picked flowers. Zálig.
Tip: the ‘Food from your own garden’ workshop with Karin at her Nature Garden Nuchter in Tzum. Watch the video of this workshop here.
Discover more in Northwest Friesland?
Got the hang of it? Northwest Friesland has much more beauty to offer. From Kimswerd, Franeker or Tzum, you can easily reach the cosy harbour town of Harlingen, with its fine restaurants, nice shops and views of the Wadden Sea. Or drive a little further to Leeuwarden. Tips for a greener route in Leeuwarden can be found here.
More cool getaways in the north!
- Also see: This itinerary for a weekend getaway in northern Groningen.
- Also see: Experience the Wadden on the mainland, go to Dokkum!
- Also see: A road trip through Friesland, tips for a week away.
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
