Le Marais is one of Paris' most popular neighbourhoods. And rightly so. The district is beautiful, charming and surprisingly green. You will find historic squares, small boutiques, vintage shops and fine lunch spots - all within walking distance. Yes, it attracts tourists. But just as the Jordaan's Nine Streets is still an oasis compared to Dam Square, Le Marais still feels wonderfully convivial in many places. Saskia takes you to her favourite addresses in this atmospheric part of Paris.
Itinerary through Le Marais
Fancy discovering Le Marais in a different way? Of course you'll want to take a stroll through the busy Rue des Rosiers - the heart of the Jewish quarter, known for its kosher bakeries, falafel stalls and centuries-old shops. But after that, leave the hustle and bustle behind and dive into the quiet(er) side streets. Especially the small streets and green spaces will show you a surprisingly different side of this popular neighbourhood.
A laid-back route through the nicest part of Le Marais
For this itinerary, we focus on the third arrondissement: the northern part of Le Marais. Here, everything feels just a bit more intimate and original. Think quiet squares, hidden courtyards, quaint shops and fine cafés where mostly locals sit. No tight schedule, just a relaxed trip along places you might otherwise overlook. Take a stroll with us.
Stop 1: coffee to go in Square du Temple
We start in the heart of Le Marais, just off Rue de Bretagne - the backbone of the district. A lively street where locals their shopping, drinking coffee and meeting each other. We will come back to that later, but first: coffee. Walk to Gramme (86 Rue des Archives), a small but beloved address with rock-solid coffee and homemade sweets and breads. Everything is organic and prepared with love. Get your order to go and walk a few minutes to Square du Temple - Elie Wiesel, one of Le Marais' most beautiful parks with lots of vistas, a waterfall and bird sounds. Fun fact to share with your travelling companions is that this garden carries an official Ecojardin label, a seal of approval for ecologically managed gardens in France. In short, a nice place where local residents start their day with a book or some stretches - and where you too can land for a while before we really start making strides in the neighbourhood. This park is also a great tip for a picnic lunch or afternoon drinks. Bring a dress and a Franprix supermarket is around the corner, but where not in Paris.
A great start to your day in Le Marais is organic bakery Gramme. From there, you can walk straight to one of Le Marais' most beautiful spots: Square du Temple.
Stop 2: narrow streets and street art spotting
Le Marais is best discovered on foot. The district is full of narrow streets, winding alleys and hidden squares. So just stroll around without rushing. Especially if you are not into shopping, a visit to the street art city tour a cool tip. It gives you a goal and makes you look at the neighbourhood in a slightly different way. Also fun with children, by the way: who will be the first to spot the artworks? Download the app from Street Art Cities, grab your map and look for artworks in streets like Rue du Temple, Rue Charlot, Rue Eugène Spuller, Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie. You'll also be near the Picasso Museum which is definitely worth a visit, especially if you are an art lover. Rue Commines is a good tip if you like second-hand and vintage shopping. With this, you have a nice walk to catch. And good to know: during your walk, you'll probably also pass by Rue des Archives. A nice bonus, because then you can tick off the next stop as well.
Left: Rue des Archives is a very pretty street in the third arrondissement. Here you will also find the National Archives with a beautiful courtyard garden. Right: Explore Le Marais with the street art tapp, as there are all kinds of artworks hidden in this little neighbourhood.
Stop 3: Rue des Archives
Next stop: Rue des Archives. Perhaps the prettiest street in Le Marais - and one that really deserves some extra attention. Have you not been to Gramme bakery before? You know the first stop on the route. Then this is the time to still score that coffee. Attention ladies: while walking you will pass the boutique Mademoiselle Jeanne (Rue des Archives 46). Even if you don't like shopping: look inside anyway. This clothing boutique has an original, colourful and carefully curated collection that will make you spontaneously happy. Feeling thirsty? Then La Fronde (Rue des Archives 33) as called. This café is right opposite Jeanne. Tip: the homemade iced tea - truly blissful. From the terrace, you also overlook a piece of history: the rainbow zebra crossing at the intersection with Rue de la Verrerie. A powerful and visible symbol of the fight for equal rights for the lhbtq+ community.
Be sure to walk on, as the impressive building of the National Archives. And the real surprise? The hidden garden behind it, which is freely accessible. A quiet, green gem in the middle of the city - perfect for taking a breather before moving on.
Stop 4: have lunch just behind Marché des Enfants Rouges
Have you seen everything in Rue des Archives? Then it's time for lunch! For that, we return to the beating heart of the district: Rue de Bretagne. Around noon, the place fills up at Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris. Yes, many tourists too - it is featured in many a travel blog - but locals still do their shopping here. You can sit at bar stools or tables in the alley. It's delicious chaos... although, to be honest, it's also just really crowded. (Spotted lots of vega and vegan options, by the way, but that aside.)
Therefore, a greener and quieter lunch tip for Le Marais: do take a stroll through the market to soak up the atmosphere, but then walk on to Le Troisième Café, just behind the market. On the quiet terrace on a small square with picnic benches, you have a view of the whole event, but you can sit in peace yourself. The food? Simple, fresh and organic. For a complete menu you pay around 12 euros, just a main course costs 6 to 7 euros. And the best part: Le Troisième Café is a social project. You pay what you can spare on top of your own bill, so that people in the neighbourhood who are less well off can also get a meal. It is run by volunteers, with organic produce donated by supermarkets. So the menu changes daily. When I was there, lentil curry was on the menu. Honest food, with a good story. Note: Make sure you have cash if you are going to eat here. Pinning is not possible here.
A lunch tip next to the popular Marché des Enfants Rouges: Le Troisième Café. As you can see from the menu, it's small prices for a menu. In addition, you pay what you can spare for another.
Stop 5: cycling through Le Marais and Oberkampf
In this itinerary, you have mostly seen the third arrondissement of Le Marais - my personal favourite. But of course, whether you agree with me can only be judged once you have also explored the southern part. So: hup, onto the Vélib bicycle for a leisurely afternoon stroll. Cycle towards Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue des Francs Bourgeois, for example, to take in some more of the district.
Also around Saint-Paul you can take a look. The church itself is definitely worth seeing - impressive and often surprisingly quiet inside. But honestly? The area around it feels busier and more touristy, with wider streets, more chains and luxury shops. So I would keep it short. What is fun though: walk on to Village Saint-Paul, a hidden maze of cobbled courtyards full of antique shops, boutiques and galleries. In short, worth parking your bike for.
And of course, the famous Place des Vosges cannot be missed - although as far as I'm concerned, it's more something to tick off your Le Marais list. The square is often applauded, but if you ask me, Square du Temple - Elie Wiesel steals the show. Still, it's fun to walk under the arcades of Place des Vosges and soak up the atmosphere.
Feel free to skip Place de la Bastille - massive and crowded - but just behind it is Cour Damoye, a hidden alley with green facades and a village feel. A gem you would walk right past, but really worth a visit.
Cycling to Oberkampf
Got time to spare or want to skip that bike ride through Le Marais? Then grab that loaner bike anyway, but to cross over to Oberkampf, one of my favourite neighbourhoods - right next to Le Marais. Here it's just a bit rawer, more creative and relaxed. More of a neighbourhood feel. And: you'll find great sustainable restaurants, fine coffee shops and lovely sustainable shops. So if you have a taste for it... just keep pedalling. Tips for a day in Oberkampf can be found here. You won't get lost. We got you.
Stop 6: more sustainable dining out in Le Marais
Want to linger for dinner after your walk, bike ride or drinks? Then Le Marais is the place to be - even if you're looking for a more sustainable option. Are you looking for vegetarian fine dining? Then you can go to B.better or Bonnard. Yay is an atmospheric bistro with a pretty courtyard and a seasonal menu with a variety of options (not strictly vega or vegan). And for a bit of revelry, head to Titi Palacio, where you finger food combines with live music or a spectacular dragshow.
Rather streetfood? Miznon is famous for its stuffed pitas and roasted cauliflower, and L'As du Fallafel is a classic in the Jewish Quarter - just pay attention on the Sabbath (closed Friday night and Saturday).
Could it be a bit fancier? Grand Coeur is a brasserie with a hidden terrace and a menu that everyone will find something on. Dessance and Datil are for foodies - modern, sophisticated, seasonal and almost or totally veg(n).
Finally, a nightcap?
Little Red Door is an iconic cocktail bar in the heart of Le Marais, hidden behind - you guessed it - a nondescript red door. This bar has been listed among the 50 best bars in the world for years and is famous for its creative as well as sustainable cocktails. They work according to a short chain they call ‘farm-to-glass’ principle. Ingredients are seasonal, sourced from local producers and carefully selected for their carbon footprint. Each cocktail tells a story, often inspired by French flavours and products. The atmosphere inside is intimate and stylish, with a touch of speakeasy mystery. A perfect place to end your day in Le Marais. Booking is smart, especially during the busy evening hours.
Your Paris tips for a day in Le Marais
Hopefully you now have a nice route - or rather a greener one itinerary - for a day in Le Marais. From quiet courtyards to street art, from social lunches to cocktails with a story: this neighbourhood shows that even the busiest parts of Paris can also be surprisingly green and quiet. Do you have another great tip for this neighbourhood? Let us know! We love to share our readers' best discoveries.
More Parry tips:
- See also the itinerary for cosy nearby Oberkampf.
- See also the itinerary for the seventh district.
- See also The itinerary for Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
