San Sebastián is the prettiest girl in the class: an atmospheric coastal city in the Basque country, still authentic and not overrun by tourists. With the most Michelin stars per inhabitant - and the three-star restaurant Arzak as its crown jewel - it is Spain's culinary capital. But the real magic is in the pintxos culture: pick bites from the bar, add a drink, eat standing up and move on to the next one. Saskia went before you and collected her best tips: from favourite pintxos bars to the best things to do in San Sebastián. Extra plus point? You get there in no time, by car or train. And then pick up Bilbao as well if at all possible. Olé.
San Sebastián or Donostia? First about the Basque country
San Sebastián, or Donostia in Basque, is located in northern Spain, just across the French border on the Bay of Biscay. It is the pearl of Spain's Basque Country, a region with its own strong identity, culture and language. The Basque Country, or Euskadi, stretches across both Spain and France and is distinguished by its proud, independent character. Here, people speak Euskera, a unique language unrelated to other languages, in addition to Spanish. This alone makes the region special. Basque Country feels different from the rest of Spain: rougher, greener and with its own deep-rooted traditions. The Basques are proud of their heritage and this is reflected in everything from their festivals to their food culture.
San Sebastián in brief
San Sebastián is atmospheric and compact. Set around a beautiful bay, the city has three different beaches that blend (almost) seamlessly. This makes San Sebastián the perfect beach-and-city-in-one destination. Nice and convenient and you can do everything on foot!
- La Concha: the iconic, shell-shaped urban beach with a lively promenade.
- Zurriola: the surf beach, popular with young people and golf lovers.
- Ondarreta: a quieter beach, ideal for families and relaxation.
The historic centre, Parte Vieja, is a maze of narrow streets full of centuries-old buildings, charming squares and lively pintxos bars (we'll get to that in a minute). Towering above the city is Monte Urgull, a green hill with ramparts and panoramic views over the bay (hear more about it in a moment).
San Sebastián, unlike many other parts of Spain, has a mild and humid maritime climate. This means mild winters and pleasant summers, but also the necessary chance of rain. It is often recommended to visit between June and September, when the weather is most stable and the city buzzes with festivals. Drawback? It can get pretty crowded then. We therefore decided last-minute to go in spring break, after we saw that it would suddenly reach 22 degrees there in February. Ideal! The city was lovely and quiet, the beaches were beautiful and we were able to enjoy everything San Sebastián and its surroundings in peace. I'll go through the best discoveries with you! And we start with the most important thing: pintxos!
The best pintxos restaurants in San Sebastián
San Sebastián is not called ‘The Belly of Spain’ for nothing. This is certainly due to the dozens of pintxos bars in Parte Vieja, the city's old centre. So let's start there right away! Every historic street is bursting with cosy eateries, where counters are filled with trays of hot and cold snacks - some snacks are like little works of art. For less than three euros, order a glass of txakoli (the local wine, pronounced: Tjakoli) and you are immediately in the holiday mood.
In San Sebastián - and throughout the Basque Country for that matter - pintxos culture a.k.a. pinchos is all about eating outdoors and socialising. All year round, conviviality moves outdoors as much as possible. A perfect place to experience this in the Old Town is on the steps of the Koruko Andre Mariaren Basilika, where locals and tourists alike socialise and enjoy their snacks and drinks. And let there be two of our favourite pintxos bars right there: Gandarias and Casa Vergara 1948. Bonus tip: at these joints also check out the hot snacks on the menu, which we found to be a ten out of ten and well worth the wait.
A highlight of your holiday in San Sebastián: eating pintxos (pinchos) in Parte Vieja and enjoying the food and street culture.
Kidstip: opposite Gandarias sits a large sports field, ideal with children. Here too - surprisingly - people socialise while the kids play ball. In San Sebastián, they don't mind their crockery. So come, take your plate and glass out cosily and bring it back neatly later.
Vegetarian pintxos
With a vegetarian diet, you can do well in a pintxos bar. You have even more choice if you also allow a local fish on your plate (tip: sea urchin and scallop). For strict vegans, a pintxos tour will be tricky. I didn't come across any vegan pintxos, and I still paid attention. There are, however, a small number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in San Sebastián, more on that in a moment.
What I like most is not to stick to one place, but to make a real pintxos tour of it. That way, you automatically discover your own favourite bars and dishes. A third pintxos bar where we found the snacks surprisingly good and original is José Mari. Bar Aralar we labelled as the kids‘ favourite pintxos bar, with many ’standard' choices that were very much to the liking of a nine-year-old. We often started our pintxos tour here, only to settle down at our favourites Gandarias and Vergara - near the football pitch. Everyone happy.
Shopping tip: if you want to do something else between drinks and bites, walk in at Colors of Basque Country, a beautiful clothing shop by the local Basque fashion brand of the same name.
Other restaurants in San Sebastián
With such a plethora of restaurants and eateries, there is no starting to map them all out. But in case you need a break from pintxos or are looking for a vegetarian or vegan meal, we've certainly found some great tips.
Vegetarian and vegan restaurants in San Sebastián
Near the Zurriola surf beach you will find Enxalao and Alabama Café, the spots for a healthy and delicious breakfast, brunch, lunch or easy evening meal. With a salad and poke bar full of fresh ingredients, vega(n) options and good coffee, these are the ideal spots to enjoy any time of the day, or to pick up your meal that you then take to the beach or to the steps of that cosy basilica! Also worth a mention is Garraxi Taberna, a popular spot among vegans and a real safe place in a city where fully vegan options are scarce. Here it is not only about the tasty, home-made vegetarian and vegan dishes, but also the welcoming service. Garraxi is a little more outside the city centre, though. Mapa Verde is San Sebastián's oldest vegan restaurant, where you can enjoy homemade, organic slow food dishes in a cosy atmosphere. This restaurant is located behind the old quarter. Then you have Orburu Taberna: a tasty vegetarian restaurant with beautiful Mediterranean dishes such as grilled cauliflower with hazelnut curry and aubergine dishes (you'll find this dining spot near the quiet Ondarreta beach). For a nice sustainable breakfast, brunch or lunch, sit at Old Town Coffee (in the small neighbourhood behind the main La Concha beach) and Simona Coffee Club (near the concert hall and Zuriola beach) totally fine.
More restaurant tips in San Sebastián
OK, so you have pintxos, a small range of vegetarian and vegan restaurants and so a lot of top Michelin-starred restaurants like restaurante Kokotxa (one star) Amelia Restaurant (two stars) and Arzak (three stars). But in between there is a whole category of fine restaurants in between that should definitely be mentioned as well. In short, a few more restaurant tips for when you want a nice long dinner, but don't want to break the bank.
Muxumartin has a large fan base and is often mentioned online as a restaurant ‘surprisingly without a Michelin star’. With refined Basque dishes and good value for money, it is a must-visit in the old town of San Sebastián. Go, go, go! Reserve your table! Ubarrechena is also a lovely restaurant in the old town with, they say, the best rice dishes in the old town (paella!), just steps away from our favourite bars and the cosy pintxos square. Outside the old centre is Kafé Botanica definitely worth a visit. A beautiful restaurant and city café with a green slant. Here you will enjoy healthy, seasonal dishes and good coffee, and when the weather is nice, you can settle down on the botanical terrace.
The Patio at Convent Garden is a relaxed open-air terrace in San Sebastián, perfect for breakfast, coffee, lunch or to enjoy drinks, live music and a cosy dinner after a beautiful day. Do check the website for opening hours, as they are not open all year and every day.
Fun things to do in San Sebastián: tips, tips, tips!
Whether it is beach weather or not, San Sebastián has so much to offer that it would be a shame to just lie on your lazy bibs in the sand. Although, we'd call you crazy if on a summer's day you took the boat from Motoras de la Isla to nearby Isla Santa Clara would skip. Here you can swim, sunbathe and enjoy the stunning views of San Sebastián! Anyway, so there is more, much more.
Hiking Monte Urgull and Monte Ulia
Start your day with a leisurely morning stroll through the still sleeping city, grab a nice breakfast at one of the many breakfast shops and patisseries open early, and then walk out of town, up the green hill of Monte Urgull or the slightly less touristy Monte Ulia. The Monte Urgull route takes you past old fortifications and the imposing statue of Christ (Sagrado Corazón), while the views over San Sebastián and the Bay of Biscay become increasingly impressive. You can read more about the hiking trails on Monute Urgull here. Monte Ulia is a rougher trail through protected nature reserve with the same stunning views as a reward. Read more about hiking on Monte Ulia here. History lesson: people used to stand on this summit to warn fishermen of whales at sea. Both walks are the perfect way to combine city and nature, and the route is just long enough that children can also keep it up just fine.
Left: in the distance, you can already see Monte Urgull and the statue of Christ. Right: a walk through Monte Ulia with views along the way. How special: Monte Ulia is a protected nature reserve and you hike there right from the city of San Sebastián.
Visit Monte Igueldo
We'll keep you moving, because on the other side of San Sebastián is Monte Igueldo, a hill with perhaps the best view of the city and La Concha bay. The most fun way to get to the top is by the historic little train, the Funicular de Igueldo, which has been taking visitors to the top since 1912. Once at the top, you are rewarded with panoramic views as well as a charming, nostalgic amusement park. Don't expect modern roller coasters here, but old-fashioned attractions such as a haunted house and a toboggan run along the cliffs. Perfect for a bit of old-fashioned entertainment with spectacular scenery!
Bike tour through San Sebastián and to Pasaia
San Sebastián is perfect for exploring by bike. From the age of 16, you can use the Dbizi share bikes, but otherwise renting a bike is a convenient alternative. We rented e-bikes from La Bicicleta Domostia, including a children's e-bike (awesome!). A fun ride takes you to Pasaia, an atmospheric fishing village just 20 minutes by bike from San Sebastián. The route is not very spectacular, but the destination makes up for everything. For €1.80 per person - bring cash! - take the ferry from Pasai San Pedro to Pasai Donibane, the quaint old centre on a narrow peninsula. Stroll through the charming streets, take a scenic walk along the cliffs and enjoy lunch overlooking the harbour. Before you return your bike, you should of course take your e-bike along San Sebastián's promenade crossposting. If all that pedalling makes you thirsty or hungry, you can relax on the promenade at Café de La Concha or at the very end of the cycle path (near the Ondarreta beach) take a break at Ñam Taberna Jatetxea.
Do! Cycling in San Sebastián, along the promenade and we cycled on to the fishing village of Pasaia.
Day trip to beautiful Hondarribia
Did you come to San Sebastián by car? Then a trip to Hondarribia is a fat tip. This getaway gets a golden edge if you take the scenic GI-3440 coastal route instead of the uninspiring toll road, those extra kilometres are well worth it. Tip: enter GI-3440 as a stopover in Google Maps and you will be automatically directed there. This atmospheric coastal town, less than half an hour away, is perhaps the most beautiful town in the Basque Country. Sorry San Sebastián, you have competition. The colourful Basque houses with wooden balconies full of flowers give it a postcard-worthy look, while the narrow, cobbled streets and imposing city walls are reminders of its rich history. Hondarribia was a strategic fortress on the border with France for centuries, and you can still feel those influences. One place you should take time to visit is the Parador de Hondarribia, a 10th-century castle later fortified by Charles V. Today, it houses a hotel, but you can still soak up the historic atmosphere in the courtyard, at Café Carlos V or on the terrace.
Conclude your visit at pintxos restaurant Zabala, which we immediately crowned the cosiest in Hondarribia for its casual café atmosphere, good playlists and the fact that it is always time for coffee or something stronger here. Apparently, they are not only cosy but also very good, as they were awarded best restaurant by Gastronomia Turismo in 2025. Hence why we already found those pintxos so remarkably delicious.
San Sebastián gets competition from Hondarribia, a picture-perfect town that is definitely worth visiting during your holidays in the Basque Country.
More San Sebastián tips
And do you still have time to spare? Then there are plenty of extras to explore! Visit the Aquarium, one of the oldest in Spain, with an impressive underwater tunnel, or immerse yourself in Basque culture at the San Telmo Museum, housed in an old monastery. And if you really like the San Sebastián vibes If you want to experience it, then of course take a surfing lesson at Zurriola beach or learn to make the tastiest pintxos yourself during a cooking class at Mimo. Are you in need of rest? Then book a yoga class at Julie (She speaks Dutch!).
Time for Bilbao?!
Do you still have time to spare after this or want to see more of the Basque country? Then a city break to Bilbao is highly recommended. We went before you and collected the best tips for Bilbao as well, the tips you won't find in every list and, as a bonus, a nice road trip there with beautiful stops between San Sebastián and Bilbao. Go!
Where to stay in San Sebastián
Have you thought about that? Plenty of choice! From super-deluxe beach hotels, such as Hotel Londres, to a cosy hostel or a nature experience at the glamping. In short, there is something for everyone. We went for something in between: a nice hotel in the city with a nice value for money. Arrizul Catedral is an absolute hit. This hotel is centrally located (near the cathedral, that is) has modern, tastefully decorated rooms and - if you have the chance - opt for a room with roof terrace. A gift! Lovely for taking a breather.
Is this hotel fully booked? There are two other Arrizul hotels in prime locations in the city, with the same fine concept and quality: Arrizul Beach Hotel and Arrizul Congress Hotel. Other hotels that really appealed to us during the pre-booking process: Abba Hotel, Sercotel and Hotel Atari. They stood out because of their good location, great reviews and pretty pictures.
Tip: don't book breakfast at your hotel! There are SO many great coffee and breakfast bars in San Sebastián where you can have breakfast at a bargain price (sometimes from as little as 4 euros). breakie you can score. And ooh, they also love sweets in San Sebastián - don't touch their cheesecake - and the patissiers are also open very early. We won't name names: Pasteleria Oiartzun, The Loaf and Aramendia Pasteleria. OK, you didn't get this from us.
Come to San Sebastián too!
With this laundry list of tips, you are guaranteed to have fun in San Sebastián! Whether you come for the food, the beaches or the beautiful surroundings, this city has it all. From Utrecht, it is about thirteen hundred kilometres to this Basque pearl. Prefer to go by train? Take the Thalys to Paris, change there to the TGV to Hendaye and travel the last half-hour by Euskotren to the centre of San Sebastián. In short, plenty of ways to get there - now just plan your trip!
More holiday tips from thegreenlist.nl
- On a silver platter: Lisbon's best!
- The other side of Spain: A road trip to Tossa de Mar.
- Handy to have on hand: fun stops on the way to southern France.
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
