The best of Bilbao: tips, tips, tips

When you think of Bilbao, you probably immediately think of the Guggenheim Museum and Casco Viejo, the old town. But this city has so much more to offer! Bilbao is the beating heart of the Basque country and there is a lot to discover. Earlier, Saskia shared her favourite tips for San Sebastián and environs, and now it's time to take you to the real Bilbao. From hidden pintxos restaurants to the creative neighbourhoods where locals love to go. In short, we'll show you the places you won't find on every blog.

City break Bilbao in the Basque country

Bilbao is located in northern Spain, just under an hour and a half from the French border. It is the economic heart of Spanish Basque Country, not to be confused with the capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria-Gasteiz. Side note: according to followers of thegreenlist.nl who have been to this region before, by the way, that is also a beautiful green (!) city worth a stop, should you have time to spare. The Basque Country, or Euskadi, is a region with its own strong identity, culture and language. It straddles both Spain and France and is distinguished by its proud, independent character. Here, people speak Euskera, a unique language without any known affinity to other languages, in addition to Spanish. This alone makes the region special. Basque Country feels different from the rest of Spain: rougher, greener and with its own deep-rooted traditions. The Basques are proud of their heritage and this is reflected in everything from their festivals to their food culture.

Bilbao is a beautiful city full of surprises. We take you through all our discoveries. The old town definitely has its charm and the Guggenheim is also definitely worth a stop. These are therefore not missing from this article, but I suspect you know how to find these places. In this article, therefore, we also take it a step further. I take you to authentic Bilbao, a quest that takes you to different places.

Casco Viejo & Plaza Nueva

We do start with the tourist heart of the city. Not just because you absolutely want to have seen this, but mainly because this is the best place to start your Bilbao adventure: the old town centre, also known as Casco Viejo. Located on the right bank of the Nervión River, this medieval district feels like a bustling, historic open-air museum. The maze of narrow streets around squares full of bars makes this a perfect place to land in Bilbao. You'll literally land that on Plaza Nueva, a large square surrounded by pintxos restaurants. Coming with kids? Ideal: in the middle of the square there is plenty of room to play, so bring your scooter and/or football!

Casco Viejo was once protected by city walls, but since these disappeared in the late nineteenth century, the seven original streets are once again free to be admired. Locals still call the area Los Siete Calles (the seven streets), and each of these streets has its own charm and name, such as Tendería Kalea (Shoemakers' Street) and Carnicería Vieja Kalea (Old Butchers' Street).

Our favourite pintxos restaurants in Plaza Nueva

Plaza Nueva is the place to go for pintxos, lots of pintxos. But where do you start? Just by checking every bar and trying a bite at the best ones. So we did our own pintxos tour in Plaza Nueva and out came these top three. Take advantage of them! Victor Montes is definitely worth a stop: in a beautiful, classic atmosphere, you will enjoy pintxos here that are just a little bit different from each other. Order a glass of Rioja or txakoli (pronounced: Tjakoli) and your culinary Basque experience is complete. La Olla gets a well-deserved mention because of the hot pintxos on the menu that are really zá-lig. And yes, Bleak Toki... this place is often tipped in lists. So you are definitely not the only one who likes to come here, but the bites here are well worth the wait and wriggle. Tip: Try a little earlier (before 8pm), it will be even quieter and you might even be able to score a bar stool or table.

More quaint pintxos streets in Bilbao's old town

Besides Plaza Nueva, Calle del Perro, Calle Jardines and Calle Santa Maria in Casco Viejo also have many pintxos restaurants that offer plenty of conviviality in the evenings. If you're still a little hungry after your pintxos adventure in the square, then definitely take a short evening stroll and navigate to those streets, or follow the buzz.

Mercado de la Riberia

We stay in Casco Viejo for a while. Located on the banks of the Nervión river, next to the church of San Antón, you will find the Mercado de la Ribera. This market is located on Calle Ribera, in the heart of Bilbao's old town. With an area of ten thousand square metres, it is one of the largest covered markets in Europe. Inside, you will find a wide range of stalls selling fresh produce, from fish and meat to fruit and vegetables. But there is also a foodhall with food stalls. Here you can choose your own pintxos and sit for a while with a drink. Tip: the entrance to the foodhall is downstairs, hidden behind sliding doors. We couldn't find it right away, so don't walk past without looking carefully!

While the Mercado de la Ribera is definitely worth a visit to soak up the local market experience, we found the atmosphere of the foodhall - a bright hall with the ambience of an airport - a little less cosy and the pintxos not the best Bilbao has to offer. It's therefore a great place to score a quick lunch, take a few photos and put a tick mark that you've seen it, but save your biggest appetites for the other pintxos bars.

A stroll through Bilbao's different neighbourhoods and tipped hotspots: La Vieja (photo 1), Café Iruña (photo 2), Abando (photo 3), Guggenheim (photos 4 & 9), Mercado de la Ribera (photo 5), Plaza Nueva (photo 6), Zubizuri bridge (photo 7), Casco Viejo (photo 8).

Abando: Guggenheim, Monte Artxanda AND the best eateries

We now step into the modern side of Bilbao, with the lively district surrounding the Alameda de Mazarredo. This street is located in the Abando district, along the banks of the river Nervión. Here you will find a mix of historical and modern architecture and, above all, many, many good eateries. This neighbourhood is also home to the famous Guggenheim Museum. Designed by Frank Gehry, this impressive building has given Bilbao a modern look. Whether you are an art lover or not, it is definitely a special building to take a look at. For 12 euros, you can enter and also see the art collection (children have free entry).

Having seen the Guggenheim, it is a nice idea to go and admire the city from above. Walk to the Funicular de Artxanda and take the little train to the top of Monte Artxanda. From here, you will have great views over the city and the surrounding mountains. Weather permitting, a stroll through the Parque de Doña Casilda Iturrizar, near the Museum of Fine Arts, is also a tip. This is a fine green space with gardens, fountains and ponds, perfect for taking a break. If you like art, then this classical art museum is also well worth a visit. Less often tipped than Guggenheim, this museum is at least as special with an impressive collection ranging from Gothic and Renaissance art to works by Goya, El Greco and Picasso. And if you're at the Guggenheim, you're in the neighbourhood!

The Zubizuri Bridge: modern architecture in Bilbao

Whether you have a thing for modern architecture or not, a walk across the Zubizuri Bridge is definitely a tip. Designed by renowned architect Santiago Calatrava, this white pedestrian bridge is shaped like a curved sail and connects the city centre with the Uribitarte district. With a glass floor and elegant arches, it is a standout on the River Nervión. The convenient thing is: from here you can walk straight to the Funicular de Artxanda. Just crossing is well worth it for some great photos and it leads you to a great viewpoint.

The best pintxos restaurants in Abando

One of the best pintxos bars we discovered during our holiday is in the Abando district: Bistro Saltire. Go, go go! And the great thing is: you will be right in the heart of Abando. If you look one way, you can see the cosy pintxos bar next door El Sacacorchos and on the other side olive bar Gilda Toki. The later in the evening, the more people gather around these cafés. So start your pintxos adventure at Bistro Saltire, because that's the place to be. It's a great place to try and a perfect starting point for a culinary tour of Abando.

We also had drinks and snacks at Abando Bar and also La Flaca looked very tempting as we walked past. Do you like fish? Then Perita, a local fish bar, highly recommended. And if you're out and about without kids, take a look at Bar Basque, a picture! This beautiful old bar with a walnut interior breathes the atmosphere of classic Bilbao. For the real Bilbao feeling, by the way, you should go to El Globo and La Vina Del Ensanche be. Wriggle among the locals for a drink, a bite to eat and some small talk. When we were there on the weekend (after 8pm) it was super crowded, but well happening! The same goes for the long Ledesma Musikariaren Kalea. You can't imagine it during the day - because it's unsociable and deserted - but at the weekend, from around eight o'clock onwards, it is filled to the brim with bubbling locals who kick off the weekend.

Worth a separate mention is Café Iruña. Located opposite the popular Jardines de Albia, this café opened its doors in 1903 and has been a household name in Bilbao ever since. What immediately stands out is the unusual interior with colourful tiles, richly decorated ceilings and beautiful murals. The interior is inspired by the Mudejar style, a mix of Christian and Moorish elements that you can recognise mainly by the arches, geometric patterns and vibrant colours. Not for nothing was the café declared a ‘Singular Monument’ in 1980.

The atmosphere at Café Iruña changes with the time of day. In the morning, it is a quiet coffee bar, ideal for starting your day relaxed. But in the evening, you hardly recognise it. Then it's a lively bar where locals gather after work for drinks and pintxos. The combination of its unusual interior and traditional dishes makes this café an absolute must-see during your visit to Bilbao.

With many cafés opening early, Jardines de Albia is anyway a good spot to start your day with a tasty (and affordable) breakfast and the best coffee....

In Bilbao, they love sweets and in Abando you're in the right place too. Two tips for sweet tooths: Pastelería Arrese Gozotegia, known for its delicious chocolates and pastries, and Misschokole for those who can't get enough of chocolate. Definitely pop in if you're craving something sweet or a dessert.

Tip: The Baja Bikes bike tour with a guide. A bike tour is a perfect activity to do on day one of your city trip, you'll get to know the city right away and you might even get a good tip from your guide that you can check out later.

Bilbao La Vieja: the raw and hip heart of Bilbao

Bilbao La Vieja, also known as Bilbi, is one of Bilbao's oldest neighbourhoods and is located on the left bank of the river Nervión, opposite the historic Casco Viejo. This district is known for its creative and alternative atmosphere, with a mix of art galleries, trendy bars and restaurants. You can easily reach Bilbao La Vieja via the San Antón bridge (right next to Mercado de la Ribera), which connects the district to Casco Viejo. During the day, many shutters with colourful and sometimes somewhat spooky graffiti closed, but around 16:30, Bilbao La Vieja comes alive: boutiques and galleries open their doors and locals descend on the many bars for after-work drinks. The district borders San Francisco, a multicultural neighbourhood that has seen a creative revival in recent years.

Looking for evening entertainment? This district is a great place to stroll, drink and eat. Here are a few tips: at Sokarrat restaurant feast on paella with the locals, while at Dando la Brasa you can go for dishes inspired by Nikkei cuisine and prepared over charcoal. For a good coffee or a nice cold lager is Bihotz Café highly recommended. Marzana 16 is located by the water and packed with locals after working hours, perfect for a true Bilbao experience. Want to go do something creative in Bilbao? At Coco Motora you can attend a pottery workshop.

A walk through La Vieja (photo 1), San Francisco (photo 2), Iralabarri (photo 3). Because of the architectural style of its colourful houses, Iralabarri is also known as Bilbao's ‘Notting Hill’.

Iralabarri: the colourful ‘Notting Hill’ of Bilbao

A tip of your favourite tour guide: a walk through the Iralabarri district, also known as Irala. This combines well with La Vieja/Bilbi above. In the afternoon, walk through San Francisco to Iralabarri, known for its colourful houses and therefore also called the ‘Notting Hill’ of Bilbao. Built for factory workers in the early 20th century, this neighbourhood stands out for its cheerful facades and English influences. Worn out? Time it so you're back in Bilbi around 4:30pm, as that's when the shutters come up and the locals pour into the bars and boutiques. Please, thank your guide later! Can't find the coloured cottages? Navigate to Errege Katolikoen Etorbidea.

By metro to Algorta (Getxo)

Although it might be a bit off the beaten track (about 30 minutes by metro), a visit to the Algorta district is definitely worthwhile. Algorta is a charming neighbourhood within the municipality of Getxo, located on the coast north of Bilbao. This neighbourhood is known for its picturesque old fishing port, the Puerto Viejo de Algorta, where you can wander through narrow streets lined with traditional white houses and enjoy local life.

The atmosphere in Algorta is village-like and authentic, with cosy streets and yes, where not in the Basque Country, surprisingly many restaurants and bars. Highly recommended is Bar Kantauri (Avenida Basagoiti 65, no site, no socials), where we found the pintxos really a ten out of ten found. A few metres down the road you can go to Tella Gori settle down for a cosy vibes courtesy of the good music taste there. No idea if it was a fluke and we got lucky with a bartender with good taste, or if it's always so vibrant here. I hope the latter for you! La Fiambrera (no site, no socials) is another tip for those who love a casual atmosphere and tasty bites. A good place to start your snack tour of Algorta: navigate to Calle Orobio Kalea. Here you'll find lots of great tents, such as Tipula and at neighbours Bodeguilla Caza and Brasa Goiti. This cosy square offers plenty of choice and great views. We promised you tips you won't find on every blog. Well, so this is one of those.

Left: square in the quaint Algorta district and right: the Vizcaya Bridge in Bilbao.

The Vizcaya Bridge: a piece of history on the Basque coast

If you have time, a visit to the Vizcaya Bridge is highly recommended. Built in 1893, this extraordinary bridge is the oldest suspension bridge in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With a gondola carrying cars and pedestrians across the river Nervión, it is a unique way to cross between Portugalete and Getxo. Definitely do it if you have the chance, the views from the footbridge are impressive - and exciting!

Outing to San Juan de Gatzelugatxe

Is your Bilbao trip part of a road trip through the Basque country? In short, do you have a car at your disposal? Then be sure to drive to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a spectacular little island on the coast about 35 kilometres from Bilbao. The island is connected to the mainland by a winding stone bridge with a whopping 241 steps. Quite a climb, but definitely worth it. At the top is a small church dedicated to John the Baptist, where, according to tradition, you must ring the bell three times and make a wish. And even if you are not a Game of Thrones fan (where the island was used as Dragonstone), the view of the rugged coast is truly breathtaking. Tip: Put on good shoes and bring a bottle of water and a snack.

Did you come to Bilbao by car, and have time to spare? Then San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (Bermeo) is worth a visit.

Zarautz: a drive along the coast worthwhile

Do you have a car and still have time? Then be sure to take a trip to Zarautz, an atmospheric coastal town about an hour's drive from Bilbao. A beautiful route too! Zarautz is known for having the longest beach in the Basque country and is a hotspot for surfers. But the old town is also definitely worth a visit: lively and cosy, with plenty of shops, patisseries, a covered market and boutiques. In short, Zarautz has everything and all within walking distance of each other. At any time of the day, it is time for coffee or something stronger here. Along the promenade, you will also find plenty of nice bars and seafood restaurants where you can enjoy fresh pintxos overlooking the sea.

Accommodation in Bilbao: from luxury to unique

As Bilbao is not only a tourist destination but also the economic heart of the Basque country, you have a wide range of hotels here. On the edge of the old town, for example, you'll find the Radisson, Nyx and the Builder Boutique Hotel. These hotels are all beautiful - luxurious - and fully equipped. Nyx and Radisson also have an insane rooftop where, hotel guest or not, you can grab a drink. Moreover, near the Guggenheim, there are plenty of chic hotels for those who love luxury. The list is endless; some of them also have stunning restaurants.

Note: from October to May, most hotels' outdoor pools are closed and the few hotels with indoor pools usually charge a hefty fee to use them. What I want to say with this: don't stare blindly at the pool.

Want something quirky that is also affordable? Then these hotels are worth checking out. Hotel Irala for its quiet location just outside the tourist centre (you know, near the colourful ‘Notting Hill’ district). LATROUPE La Granja I would describe it as a cosy, atmospheric and hipperdepip hostel in an excellent location (Abando!) with dorms, but also with lovely private rooms. In Casco Viejo, the old town, you'll find a cosy and beautifully decorated guest house equipped with all modern conveniences but in a classic movie theme: Pensión Boutique Caravan Cinema. Very cool!

Tip: don't book breakfast at your hotel, but go looking for cosy coffee and breakfast bars every day. Plenty of choice, it is a lot more affordable and much more fun: you start the day with a new discovery!

Come to Bilbao too!

With this laundry list of tips, you are guaranteed to have fun in Bilbao! Whether you come for the food, the museums and modern architecture, the rich history or the beautiful coast, this city has it all. From Utrecht, it is about 1,250 kilometres away, which means about 14 hours behind the wheel. You can perfectly combine Bilbao as part of a road trip to discover more of the Basque country. In three days, you can get a good look at the city and then move on to one of the other places. Plenty to see! We went for nine days in the spring break and combined Bilbao and surroundings with San Sebastián and surroundings in one holiday. A great mix of city, culture, history, sea, mountains and, of course, pintxos, which we can recommend to anyone! Also check out this article on San Sebastián and its surroundings.

More holiday tips from thegreenlist.nl

• On a silver platter: Lisbon's best!
• The other side of Spain: A road trip to Tossa de Mar.
• Handy to have on hand: fun stops on the way to southern France.
  
  

Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.