We added at thegreenlist.nl a favourite: Zurich in Switzerland. As far as we are concerned, this city is the tip for anyone who loves atmospheric city life and green hotspots. You discover Zurich by bike or public transport, eat surprisingly well veg(n) and you can travel there by train or car. In about eight hours, you'll be sitting by Lake Zurich with an Aperol Spritz in your hand, with the Alps as your backdrop. Need we say more? Saskia takes you on a greenlist tour of Züri as the locals affectionately call their city. She shares her favourite Zurich tips!
Seeing and doing in Zurich: our favourites
In cooperation with Visit Zurich
Zurich is really one of those cities you fall in love with straight away. Not because there is one big attraction you must visit, but because the city surprises in so many places. Each neighbourhood has its own charm. In the fashionable city centre, luxury boutiques are a feast for the eyes. On Lindenhof - a historic park in the middle of the city - you can completely relax with a view of the old city centre. District 5 (around the Viadukt, I'll get to that) is raw, creative and perfect for those who love street art and sustainable boutiques. In the surrounding districts 3 and 4, get a taste of neighbourhood life and feel right at home. And along the lake? There's a lovely laidback atmosphere. On sunny days, you see locals plop down here with an Aperol Spritz or beer in hand or look each other up for a game of football or kubb.
In short, Zurich is a city to wander around in. I spent a week there with my family and we couldn't get enough of all the photogenic streets, fine bakeries, culinary delights, the clear blue lake and outdoor culture - and that already at the end of April! Our ultimate tip: explore the city by bike. You automatically roll from one district to another, spot the coolest places along the way, and before you know it you're off into the greenery. I take you with me to Zurich, because oi oi oi, I did discover some cool things that are very much on your greener list.
Tip: buy a Zurich Card and pick up your loaner bike!
The first tip: buy a Zurich Card. For a fixed amount (during our trip: 56 Swiss francs for adults and 37 francs for children) you get 72 hours of free access to all public transport as well as a good number of museums and outings such as a boat trip on the lake. And then that bike: via Züri Rolls you can borrow a bike for free at the station - even without a Zurich Card. Children's bikes are also available. If you want to keep it longer than a day (recommended, as cycling in Zurich is very pleasant and goes smoothly), you pay 10 francs per bike per day. Note that you pay a 20 Swiss francs deposit per bike. You have to pay this in cash. So in addition to proof of identity, take cash along to get rolling quickly on your Züri bike. Reservations are not necessary, you can just drop by spontaneously.
Nice neighbourhoods and places in Zurich
Sure, if you're in Zurich, you must take a stroll through Lindenhof. This is one of the city's oldest neighbourhoods with narrow streets, charming squares and a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. Just like a fairy tale. In the middle of the district is Lindenhof park, a raised square with lime trees that feels like a park and offers great views over the old town and the Limmat river. The elegant city centre - with its wide avenues, chic shops and spots like Bahnhofstrasse and Neumarkt - is also a must-see. But honestly? Zurich is SO much more. Especially if you hop on your rental bike or hop on the tram with your Zurich Card.
Sustainable restaurant tips in the heart of Zurich
While we are in the historical heartland, here you will find two sustainable restaurants that are definitely worth a visit. At Lindenhof you will find Neue Taverne - vegan fine dining, but without the fuss. Housed in a traditional brown café, this restaurant serves modern, plant-based and vegetarian dishes that you can say hello to. The plant-based caviar, miso aubergine and their burrata are tipped as this restaurant's signature dishes. Although the menu changes regularly with the seasons, these guest favourites always stay on it. So we order those! The flavour combinations they create here are amazing and you don't come across them often. Everything comes from an open kitchen, with a fine 80s playlist playing in the background. Delicious contrasts, and an evening not soon to be forgotten. Tip: do make a reservation, as this is a favourite among locals.
The second recommendation: Haus Hiltl. This is the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world. You want to have been there, right? A household name in Zurich since 1898, and still the place for those who want veg(n) and tasty food, right in the middle of the city. You can order à la carte or opt for the buffet where you pay by weight. Also ideal if you just fancy a bit of everything. A tip are the Indian curries. Reservations are not necessarily required here.
Seefeld (District 8)
A chic and green neighbourhood with stately buildings, wide avenues and a nice, relaxed atmosphere. This is one of those neighbourhoods where you immediately feel: this is where I want to live. You will also find Villa Patumbah, a beautiful old manor house with a lovely park around it. Perfect for a (vegan) picnic. Tip: order a well-stocked picnic basket in advance from Hammam Basar, take it off and find a nice spot in the grass. This is Zurich at its best! By the way, this district is also ideal for staying in. We slept here in Hotel Ambassador, near the opera and right on the lake. Super central and yet wonderfully quiet. Like.
Industrial Quarter (District 5, around the Viaduct)
District 5 was once the industrial heart of Zurich with factories, sheds and train tracks. It has since grown into one of the most creative and vibrant parts of the city. The beating heart? The Viaduct: an old railway bridge dating from 1894 that is still in use with a whole row of arches underneath that have been transformed into shops, boutiques, galleries and food hotspots. Only entrepreneurs with a sustainable, zero waste or social mission are allowed to locate here. And that makes this area a must-visit during your green Zurich adventure.
The arches include a market hall full of local delicacies. At Restaurant Markthalle Zurich vegetarian pastas and seasonal dishes are served, such as, when we were there, a green spring isotto with wild garlic. Za-lig. Pasta is made fresh at the Italian stall in the market. Next to the Viaduct is a green field where you can chill, with a playground and petanque courts, which also makes it an ideal place to go with children.
A nice neighbourhood in Zurich that is definitely worth a visit is the area around the Viadukt with many sustainable boutiques, restaurants, a large park and an outdoor bar with festival vibes.
Our favourite discovery in this neighbourhood? Frau Gerolds Garten. Perhaps the very best place to have a drink in all of Zurich. An outdoor bar with a festival atmosphere - a beach feel and all that right by the railway. One of those places where you spontaneously linger for hours. Check the opening hours, as this outdoor bar is not open all year round!
Outdoor bar with street food: Micas Garten
Crazy about outdoor bars like Frau Gerolds Garten? Then I have another super tip - though one you'll probably have to travel a bit for, but thanks to the good public transport connections, it's a snap in Zurich. In the Altstetten district (District 9), you'll find Micas Garten - a big city oasis with a festival atmosphere. Here it is all about streetfood, drinks, games together, music and conviviality. You can also go there for surprisingly delicious vegetarian and vegan dishes, such as Afghan mezze and Tibetan dumplings. We had spotted it on Instagram at @vegansofzuri and it turned out to be just as tasty as it looked. Again: check opening times as it is a seasonal spot.
Around Europaallee (District 4 & 5)
Adjacent to the main train station is Europaallee, a modern, sleekly designed district full of hip shops, nice coffee shops and good restaurants. It's one of those places you go to because you're on your way to something else, but it's definitely worth taking a longer look around here too. Zurich HB - the Hauptbahnhof- is also worth a visit. This station is much more than just a place to catch the train with impressive departure halls, underground shopping arcades, fine dining spots as well as a convenient Züri Rollt drop-off point for your free rental bike.
Do you want to be like a local Try raclette? Then Stadtkäserei Zurich behind the station a tip! Here you can order all-you-can-eat raclette with vegetables and potatoes. Friendly service, Swiss wine to go with it. That's all you need. Stadtkäserei Zürich is a fine alternative to the popular - read: in my opinion, a little too touristy - Swiss restaurants in the Old Town.
A fun veggie dining tip at the station: score a burger at Action Burger At a small shop tucked away on the platform. We discovered this joint in a YouTube travel vlog and were immediately sold. They only serve one burger here - with meat or a veggie variant - and have honed that recipe to perfection. Simple and SO delicious (and quite affordable by Swiss standards). We took it as a lunch treat after a nice morning walk, because...
Things to do in Zurich: up the Uetliberg!
From Zurich HB also departs the train that will take you to the Uetliberg brings, Zurich's house mountain (871 metres high). Inside no time you are in the middle of nature, with panoramic views of the city, the lake and - on clear days - even the Alps. Nice bonus: you travel via Europe's steepest regular railway. Can you tick that off again - although it sounds more spectacular than it is. And back? Then you'll score that burger and dive into this neighbourhood some more!
Extra tip: those walking or cycling from the station towards District 5: behind the National Museum (impressive building, not to be missed) lies the Platzspitzpark. A beautiful, peaceful park between two rivers, with shady paths, old trees and benches. Formerly notorious, it is now an oasis of calm. If you stroll through this park from the main train station, you will automatically arrive at the start of a lovely walk along the Limmat (read more about this green Zurich tip below).
At the central station, catch the train to Zurich's house mountain (Uetliberg) for a nice walk with reward: a fantastic panoramic view over the city. Bonus tip: upon returning home, eat an (vegan) Action Burger at the station.
District 10 - Wipkingen & Höngg
District 10 is a district of contrasts - which is exactly why it is so cool here. On one side, you have the lively stretch along the Limmat, with an almost festival-like summer atmosphere (and that at the end of April!). Colourful graffiti, a beach volleyball court with a game going on, a skate-ramp, runners and terraces right by the water. Here you will also find the popular badis (open-air swimming pools) Oberer Letten and Unterer Letten, where you work with the locals sunbathe on the quayside and dive into the river in the summer months. This part of the city is bustling! If you know Amsterdam's Westerpark, you'll immediately understand the vibe. Also in this green oasis, next to the hydropower plant that powers Zurich in a sustainable way, is Stazione Paradiso, an outdoor bar in an old train carriage, perfect for a drink in the sun. Do check in advance whether it is open, as it is a real seasonal spot.
On the other side of Wipkingen, you will find a totally different side of the district. Quieter, with stately town villas and pretty green avenues. Here you will also find The Artisan, also one of our favourite restaurant discoveries. Sustainable, local and super tasty. You can taste the herbs from the roof garden directly on your plate. Book a table and enjoy the food and the sunset.
Wipkingen and Höngg are also two neighbourhoods you'll want to explore while in Zurich. Stroll along the Limmat river, take a splash in an outdoor pool or settle down on a terrace. For the evening, book your table at the sustainable restaurant The Artisan where you will be served flavours from the garden.
Hidden gem: Natural History Museum
Amidst all of Zurich's big, well-known museums lies a surprising gem that is often overlooked: the Natural History Museum of the university. Always free to enter - with or without a Zurich Card - and truly a insider tip. The museum is full of stuffed animals, skeletons and fossils (including a kids tip so!). Extra fun: take the cable car Polybahn up. You get on at Central, right next to Zurich Hauptbahnhof, and you whizz to the campus where the museum sits in two minutes. Combine your visit with a drink at Kleine Freiheit. Yes, another one of those cosy ‘hippie’ outdoor bars, literally around the corner from the museum, that you automatically come across as you walk back.
Financial district around Paradeplatz & Schanzengraben (District 1)
OK, a financial district might not immediately sound like a cosy, green place. But in Zurich, this part is surprisingly charming and very green. Between the headquarters of big banks, you will find quiet streets, classic architecture and hidden gems.
At Bäckerei Jung on Bleicherweg, we joined the queue between bankers on lunch break. Our choice? A pretzel with vegan cream cheese and a coffee-to-go. Tip: with your lunch, you walk from Jung to the nearby Schanzengraben, a beautiful old defensive canal that today forms a green walking route through the city. You walk along a narrow path along the water, among trees and whistling birds. The city suddenly seems far away here, even though you are right in the middle of it. At the end of this quiet path, you encounter the Alte Botanische Garten. This compact, freely accessible garden with many benches is truly a discovery. On top of the old city wall is also the Gessner-Garten, a medieval herb garden. This is one of those places where you spontaneously linger, perfect for a moment of rest between cycling around.
Must-visit: Hürlimannbad & Spa Zurich
This is the one. THE tip. The most beautiful bathing and spa experience you will probably ever experience can be found in Zurich: Hürlimannbad & Spa Zurich. Located in the Enge district (District 2), the spa is housed in an old brewery. You bathe here under centuries-old vaults (awesome!) and on the roof a rooftop infinity pool With panoramic views over the city. Truly a ten! Booking in advance is recommended, especially on busy days. And good to know: with the Zurich Card, you get 10% discount on your entrance.
Around Helvetiaplatz (district 4)
This is one of the up & coming neighbourhoods of Zurich. Around Helvetiaplatz there is a real neighbourhood atmosphere. You experience the everyday life of the city here. Every Saturday, the square turns into a cosy flea market where you can browse among vintage crockery, second-hand clothes and other treasures. (FYI: it is Switzerland's largest weekly flea market with four hundred stalls). On Tuesdays, there is a small-scale market with fresh produce and delicacies from local makers. For coffee, lunch, drinks or dinner, you'll be right at Bank, located in a former bank building - hence the name. With its high ceilings and large terrace, this is one of those places where it is easy to linger. Extra nice: the same building also houses John Baker, an organic bakery with a mission. They work with local ingredients, bake everything by hand and offer workplaces to people distanced from the labour market.
Scoring affordable breakfasts in Zurich
Good news about John Baker: you can find this delicious bakery in several places in the city, the ideal breakfast and lunch spot during your Zürichtrip. If you can't find a John Baker, check for a Bäckerei Hug is also a good bakery chain with delicious (fair trade!) coffee-to-go! Another cool concept where you can go all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner is the vegetarian buffet chain Tibits. You pay by weight (during our visit it was 3.90 francs per hundred grams), bread as a side dish and drinks for children are free at Tibits.
Oh, and another tip: bring your drinking bottle! In Zurich, you can simply drink from all the public fountains - and there are quite a few of them: over a dozen hundred scattered throughout the city. Free, clean and wonderfully refreshing.
Along Lake Zurich
On sunny days, the park along Lake Zurich, between the city centre and Seefeld, is one of Zurich's finest spots. Here you will find an elongated green area where locals get together after work or on weekends to have drinks, picnic or just hang out overlooking the lake. Do as the locals: Get a takeaway and eat it along the quay or in the grass, with the Alps in the background.
This park is also home to the surprisingly beautiful Chinese garden with water features and pavilions. Small but special, and definitely worth a visit. And it's free to visit, so why not. Right next door stretches a huge lawn where all kinds of things happen: a large, adventurous playground for children, groups of friends chilling out with music, families picnicking, students reading a book in the sun, and a game of football here and there. And just down the road you will find an outdoor swimming pool with a slide (Strandbad Tiefenbrunnen), a tip for a hot summer day. In short, place where you can effortlessly spend a few hours (or a whole afternoon) in a city park - just the way Zurich is meant to be.
Second-hand shopping in Zurich
Fancy a sustainable shopping session? In Zurich you also have plenty second-hand shops and vintage boutiques. On the website nieneu.ch you'll find a handy overview. A sustainable corner still worth a mention are the vintage shops Booster and Blenda 2 (side by side on Stüssihofstatt in the Niederdorf district, District 1). These sit next to bakery Äss-Bar, where you score ‘yesterday's bread’. And don't forget the flea market on Helvetiaplatz on Saturdays.
Zurich: stylish, green and surprisingly relaxed
Zurich may not be the cheapest city break, but it is one that will stay with you. Everything here is stylish, spotless and perfectly organised. No mass tourism, nowhere too busy, but plenty of authenticity and cosiness. Yes, life is more expensive - the inhabitants also earn more on average - but with some smart choices you can keep it within limits. The Zurich Card gives you free public transport and free entrance to most museums, you can rent bikes for free via Züri Rollt, and for a quick bite there are plenty of buffet restaurants and healthy veggie fast-food spots. Combine that with a lake full of swimming spots, laid-back outdoor bars, cosy neighbourhoods and that typical Swiss calm... and you have just the perfect city break. So yes, bring some extra pocket money - but above all: let yourself be surprised. Because those who discover Zurich will fall a little bit in love with it.
Zurich is a great city where you can enjoy yourself for at least a week. Stroll through the historic Lindenhof district, act like the locals and get your breakfast or lunch at a bäckerei (tip: John Baker, Hug or Jung) and, of course, as a tourist, you'll want to take a boat trip on the lake. Entry is free with your Zurich Card, so why not too! Watch the video of our holiday in Zurich here!
Transport to Zurich
Zurich is easily accessible: by both day and night train, you will travel there from the Netherlands in about eight to nine hours. It also takes about the same amount of time by car from Utrecht. If you opt for the car, bear in mind that parking in the city is often pricey. A more affordable alternative is Parkhaus Zürichhorn, just outside the city centre. During our stay, parking there cost 25 francs a day - considerably cheaper than most downtown garages. From the car park you can walk straight into that chic Seefeld district or the Chinese garden.
More travel tips from thegreenlist.nl
- Two great European destinations are also Lisbon and San Sebastián. We have greener tips for that too!
- Sustainable in the Netherlands: On a road trip through Friesland!
- On a city break in the Netherlands? Have you considered Eindhoven?
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
