Oelala, this is one of Saskia's favourite holiday destinations! The coastline between Saint-Raphaël, Saint-Aygulf and Agay is a succession of azure bays where you can snorkel fantastically as well as enjoy those fine beach bars where the rosé is always cold. Avoid the busy and touristy Fréjus and concentrate on discovering the nicest beach spots and hidden coves. Diving goggles with you? Go!
Beach bars in Saint-Raphaël
The French Riviera has its hotspots - Nice, Cannes, Saint-Tropez - but if you want it just a touch more relaxed, you will be right around Saint-Raphaël. Nestled between the rocky red cliffs of the Massif de l'Estérel and the shimmering sea, this charming seaside resort, together with neighbouring villages such as Saint-Aygulf and Agay, is a surprisingly fine region to holiday in. No giga yachts or champagne bottles on the beach here, but small-scale bays, intimate beach bars and a relaxed atmosphere. Ideal for those who love snorkelling, walking along the coast and long afternoons at tables overlooking the sea.
Tortu Plage (Saint-Raphael)
Tortu Plage is one of those places you keep coming back to. At Tortu, you really feel like you have discovered a treasure. A personal favourite, this picture-perfect beach bar is located in a sheltered cove just off cosy Boulouris, just outside the centre of Saint-Raphaël. The water here is crystal clear and in the shallows you can spot the most beautiful fish. Goggles in your beach bag are a must. From the small beach you can walk straight into the water between the rocks of the Estérel mountains. Tortu is tastefully decorated with lots of rattan, natural tones and a touch of boho chic, just what you would hope for on the Côte d'Azur. Perfect for a long lunch, a sunset dinner or just an afternoon with your feet in the sand. Don't forget to make a reservation!
The nicest beach bars and snorkelling spots near Frejus can be found in Saint Raphaël, like so Tortu Plage.
Le Puisette Plage (Saint-Raphael)
Is Tortu's full, or do you just want to try something different? Then Le Puisette Plage a delightful option. This beach club is located on the same charming little beach at Boulouris, but has a slightly different look and feel. Slightly sleeker, more of a restaurant than a beach club, but still that ultimate Côte d'Azur feeling. Stylish sunbeds, fresh salads, a glass of rosé within reach and perhaps the best snorkelling spot on the whole coast. The water here is crystal clear and you roll straight into the bay from your bed. Again, reservations are smart.
A lovely beach club in Saint-Raphaël is Le Puisette with a beautiful snorkelling beach.
La Plage de l'Île d'Or (Agay)
For those who are not afraid of a bit of adventure, there is La Plage l'Île d'Or highly recommended. This beach bar is located on the rocks on the coast near Agay, right opposite the mysterious islet with that iconic tower. The place belongs to Camping Domaine de l'Île d'Or, but you don't have to be a campsite guest to enjoy it here. The route there is an adventure in itself: park at Cap Dramont (tip: go early!) and follow a winding path along the rocks. So wear sturdy shoes! Once you arrive, you are rewarded with a relaxed, casual atmosphere, lovely seating and lounging areas and a menu full of surprises. Here we spot the most vega and vegan options of all. And the water? Aiaiai... perhaps the richest underwater world in the whole region. Don't forget your snorkel!
You have to do a lot for it, but then you get to this beautiful beach club: La Plage de l'Île d'Or. We had some fantastic snorkelling here and you'll also find most of the vegetarian and vegan options on the menu.
Maobi Beach (Agay, Saint-Raphaël)
Close your eyes and think of an idyllic spot by the sea... then draw with your mind Maobi Beach. Everything about this beach restaurant oozes Côte d'Azur atmosphere. The location is really beautiful, right on the Bay of Agay. The menu is Mediterranean with a fresh twist: fish, veg and colourful salads, beautifully served and carefully prepared. They also rent beach beds, but as far as I am concerned, the magic is mainly in the long dinners with a view. Want to go into the sea? Just fine! But for snorkellers, a bay (or bed) further away is more rewarding. First enjoy, then explore!
Maobi Beach is a great place to sit, lie down and eat. For snorkelling, you'll have to look a bit further afield, but you'll find plenty of snorkelling spots near this beach club on the outskirts of Saint-Raphaël.
Les Paillottes (Saint-Raphael)
Les Paillottes feels a bit like a well-kept secret. This charming beach club sits a little higher up in a quiet spot on the bay of Saint-Raphaël, with sea views and an atmosphere reminiscent of classic French beach houses. Very casual, very southern France. You have lunch here on a stylish terrace. No feet in the sand, but still that relaxed holiday feeling. Ideal for extensive dining in the lee of the midday sun. And the best part? After lunch you can walk down to one of the small snorkelling bays nearby. First a good meal, then into the water. Très bien!
Les Paillots in Sain-Raphaël is more of a beach restaurant, though with beautiful moustache bays within walking distance.
Tiki Plage (Saint-Raphael)
Tiki Plage is located on one of the region's most beautiful bays: Camp Long. A sandy beach surrounded by rocks, crystal-clear water and plenty of aquatic life. The water slopes slowly and feels like a natural lagoon. And the best part? As a bonus, you get Tiki Plage to go with it. No fuss, just a laid-back beach shack where you plop down after your snorkelling trip for a cold drink, some goodies from the menu and a view you can't help but love. Parking is available at the top of the cliff. Don't worry, there is ample parking right there. From there, you can walk down in a few minutes.
Tiki Plage is an easy beach hut on a beautiful little bay in Saint-Raphaël where you can enjoy snorkelling.
Club Agathos (Agay, Saint-Raphaël)
Club Agathos is the perfect base for a long snorkelling trip. Indeed, from the beach you can swim a long stretch along the rocks through calm and crystal-clear water. A rich marine life unfolds beneath you. And with a bit of luck, you might even spot a turtle. When we were there, part of the beach was even cordoned off because turtles were nesting there. How special is that? After your snorkelling adventure, sit down at Club Agathos, a French beach club just as you hoped: white wooden house, chalkboards with the menu of the day, wooden chairs and a relaxed atmosphere. No fuss, just French.
At Club Agathos, you can do perhaps the best snorkelling in all of Saint-Raphaël.
Saint-Raphaël: beach bars to dream away at
Whether you come for the snorkelling, the food, the views or just to get away from it all, the Saint-Raphael coast is bursting with fine beach bars you will never want to leave. From tropical vibes at Tiki Plage to very fine French dining and everything in between. What all these places have in common? They also offer fantastic snorkelling. So: book your table, throw those goggles in your beach bag and be surprised by all the beauty this corner of the Côte d'Azur has to offer. Bonnes vacances!
More holiday tips in France
- Also see: fun stops on the way to southern France.
- Also see: tips for a day in the fun district of Oberkampf (Paris).
- Also see: Travel guide for great holidays in Languedoc.
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
