Barcelona is tempting for many tourists: sun, sea, beach, tapas, a lot of tourist attractions and the friendly, relaxed atmosphere of Spanish culture. For a pittance, you can fly there for a weekend. No wonder then that the city has been in demand for years and that you can sometimes walk over heads in high season. This is why Saskia went looking for an alternative route in Barcelona. One off the beaten track. More local, less ‘I love Barcelona’ shirts.
Looking for a local experience in Barcelona
Saskia visited Barcelona with her family during a sunny spring break and that might be the first tip: go off-season (by car or train and during the week if you can). With 12-15 million visitors a year, Barcelona is one of Europe's biggest tourist destinations, although it is not even the biggest. Yet it often feels busier than, say, Paris or London, even though those cities attract more tourists. This is mainly because Barcelona is more compact. Many highlights are close together, so you soon feel like everyone is in the same place. Locals are also fed up and show it with protests and ‘tourists go home’ banners. And I too found it harder to really go off the beaten track than in cities like Lisbon, San Sebastián or Bilbao, where with just a few corners around you can already suddenly find yourself among the locals. But it worked out!
Morning in Poble-Sec
If you are looking for a fun activity for the morning to lunch, rent a bike - anyway, it is a tip to rent a bike for several days - and don't head towards the beach or Sagrada Família. Start in Poble-Sec, a neighbourhood at the foot of Montjuïc hill where people still live and breathe. No queues for brunch spots, but bakeries, small bars and local shops. Start your morning at Buenas Migas (near Poble-Sec metro station) for coffee and a focaccia or something sweet and then hop back on the bike towards Barcelona's city mountain: Montjuïc.
Montjuïc is Barcelona's green lung: a hill above the city where you suddenly feel space and where surprisingly few day-trippers come. While this is precisely where the best viewpoints are. From several terraces you look out over the port, the sea and the city rolling out before you like a chessboard. Here you mostly hear birds and a few joggers, no roller-coasters. And yes, from some spots you can even see the Sagrada Família in the distance, but without the crowds around it. Walk towards the fountains and the MNAC museum for a sweeping view of Eixample with that distinctive street pattern. This is where you really see how cleverly Barcelona was designed.
After your lap, get back on your bike and ride back to Poble-Sec for lunch at Quimet & Quimet. This is truly an experience. Try to get there on time as it is popular and tiny. It is officially a wine shop, but everyone is here at the bar for fresh tapas. The smells of truffle, fish and aged cheeses meet you and before you know it, you're standing with a glass in your hand and three plates on. Note: this is not a tip for dedicated vegans.
Left: a walk through the garden of the Greek theatre in one of Montjuïc's parks. Right: eating tapas at the Quimet & Quimet tapas bar in Poble-Sec. These two activities can be perfectly combined in one morning.
Afternoon and evening in Gràcia
Chilled at the beach or visited a museum in the morning and want to do something vibrant in the afternoon and evening? Then head to Gràcia. This district feels completely different from the centre. It was once an independent village outside the city and you can still tell. Narrow streets, squares where local residents know each other and no big chains on every street. It's a hefty neighbourhood though, so pick a few spots and let the rest go. My number one tip: navigate to Carrer d'Astúries, a fine street with cool boutiques and sustainable shops from local makers. Nearby are Plaça del Sol and Plaça de la Virreina, where everyone comes out towards the end of the afternoon. Stroll via Carrer de Verdi and Plaça del Diamant to Carrer Torrent de l'Olla and, above all, be guided by what feels cosy.
Got an appetite? Join us at Can Tresó for a tapa among locals just coming from work. Or head to Bar Salvatge for natural wines and good food. Both in this neighbourhood and exactly where you can taste the atmosphere of the still real Barcelona.
In Gràcia you will also find Casa Vicens, one of Gaudí's earliest designs. This iconic building is possibly a little less known than the Sagrada Família, but for that very reason it is nicer to visit. No crowds, just those typical colours, tiles and playful shapes he is known for. And this building is also a World Heritage Site!
A cosy neighbourhood life in Barcelona can be found in the Gràcia district.
Discovering the neighbourhood life of El Born
The most fun part of touristy Barcelona is undoubtedly El Born. Yes, it is crowded. And yes, there are too many tourist shops among them as far as I'm concerned. But strangely enough, the district has retained its charm. Narrow streets, old facades and cosy squares. Between the terraces is the Picasso Museum, tucked away in a few medieval buildings, which gives the district just a little more depth than just food and drink. The most convivial moment? In the evening, when you sit down for tapas. For super-fresh, sustainably caught fish, the place to be is Nardi. Fancy a cosy bar with natural wines and plenty of vega options too? Then Brutal a fine stop. And at Bormuth, on the edge of El Born, you still get the most Barcelona feel from a decade ago. Simple dishes, approachable and a little less polished. In between eating, this neighbourhood is also the place to walk into a second-hand shop, vintage shop or boutique of a local artist.
Also definitely do: chill with the locals at the end of the day in Parc de la Ciutadella. Youngsters with guitars, families on picnic blankets, people running a lap or just sitting on a bench with a book. It is also a lovely place to start your day with a morning run, especially if you are staying in this area. We were in a super-fine and affordable flat in a quiet street on the edge of El Born, with a nice balcony! Every morning we walked straight into the park and in the evening we rolled back home after our tapas tour. Perhaps that is the nicest way to experience Barcelona: not rushing, but moving with the rhythm of the city.
Even though it's touristy, the El Born district is something you'll want to explore when in Barcelona. Tip: look for the tapas bars where the locals also come and don't forget the Parc de la Ciutadella.
Sustainable and vegetarian restaurant tips Barcelona
Finally, a list of sustainable restaurants criss-crossing the city. Vegetarian food can be found in most tapas bars, but for vegans it will be a difficult task. If you want to consciously choose a place where vegetables play the leading role or where local products are used, these are fine addresses. At the award-winning vegetarian restaurant Fat Veggies (Eixample) is all about vegetables of the season. Grasa (Barceloneta) is an entirely vegan tapas bar. Also at Faire Tapas & Wine (Eixample) you will find creative vega and vegan tapas in a casual setting. Fugaz (Eixample) operates on the short-chain principle, farm-to-table, a wonderful fine dining option. And Honest Greens (at multiple locations) is an accessible option if you want quick, fresh and largely plant-based food.
Discovering Barcelona in a different way
Also fun, tip from a follower: before you go, check if there is a second-hand market or food market taking place. Palo Market Fest is one of those events where local makers, vintage vendors and sustainable food stands come together. Exactly the energy you're looking for if you want to do things a little differently from the standard city tour. If you're in Barcelona with kids, then CosmoCaixa highly recommended. This interactive science museum is surprisingly fun, even for adults. After a few hours doing experiments, you can go straight to the neighbourhood Sarrià. This is a classier, quiet neighbourhood where, for a moment, you feel like you have landed in a small Catalan village rather than a metropolis of millions. Barcelona remains a magnet. But if you look just a little beyond the highlights, you'll discover there's still plenty of room for a different route. More local, less rushed. And perhaps that is the best way to make a popular city a little bit your own after all.
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
