We may have discovered the French's best-kept secret, and it's called Corsica. It takes a little more effort to get there, but it's well worth it. You can even take your own car and the (night) ferry. Once on the island, it feels like all our favourite holiday destinations have come together. The azure sea is reminiscent of Curaçao, the cliffs of the Great Ocean Road in Australia, the rugged interior of Costa Rica, and nestled in between are charming French villages. Corsica has it all! We'll take you along our road trip itinerary and share the most beautiful stops, great places, and useful tips we encountered, so you can get the most out of your trip to Corsica.
A tour of Corsica means making choices
Don't be mistaken, Corsica is not an island you can ‘tack on’ in a few days. It is the fourth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, after Sicily, Sardinia and Cyprus. The distances may not seem that far on the map, but due to the winding mountain roads and altitude differences, a drive often takes much longer than you think. Sometimes even almost twice as long as Google Maps predicts, as we now know. You can make a wonderful tour in two to four weeks, but it’s impossible to see everything. We encountered many itineraries where you move to a new destination every two days. This way, you see a lot, but for us, that felt a bit too rushed. We preferred a bit more relaxation, so we would still have enough time to snorkel in the clear water, spend an afternoon on the beach or really get to know a place. This way, we also got that wonderful old-fashioned holiday feeling again. Moreover, it's a good excuse to come back, because there is still plenty to discover.
By boat to Corsica: these are your options!
Before we share our itinerary with you, it's useful to first consider where your Corsica adventure will begin and end. The great thing is that you can reach Corsica with your own car. You also don't have to return on the same ferry you arrived on. This gives you much more freedom when planning your route. The main ports are Bastia in the northeast, Ajaccio on the west coast, L’Île-Rousse in the northwest, and Porto-Vecchio in the south. Ferries depart from France from locations including Nice, Toulon, and Marseille. If you are travelling via Italy, then Livorno and Savona are popular departure ports. Therefore, first look at which crossing best suits the route you want to drive. This can save you a significant number of hours in the car at the beginning or end of your trip.
For our round trip, we chose the overnight ferry with Corsica Linea from Marseille. Not only because it fitted perfectly with our route – more on that later – but also because the crossing truly became part of the holiday. You board in the evening, sleep in your own cabin while the boat gently sails across the sea, and wake up the next morning… with Corsica in sight. You can read more about the ferry crossing in this article!
A beautiful route through Corsica
Before we share our favourite stops, here’s an overview of the route we’d recommend. Take a ferry arriving in L’Île-Rousse, in the Balagne region of northwest Corsica, and start your road trip there. Allow three to four nights to explore the surroundings. Afterwards, drive inland through the mountainous interior to Corte, where two nights are sufficient in our opinion. Then, travel on to the east coast and take your time there if you love idyllic beaches, snorkelling, and a lively beach scene. Feel free to plan about ten nights on this side of the island as we did. Brilliant! Then, conclude your road trip in Ajaccio if you also want to see some of the rugged west coast. Or choose Bastia if you’d prefer to explore the green coast and the northeast of Corsica. Ferries back to the mainland depart from both locations.
First stop: L’Île-Rousse, the perfect base for Balagne
We would therefore begin the tour in L'ÃŽle-Rousse. This cosy coastal town is located in the Balagne region, one of the most beautiful regions of North Corsica. Balagne is known for its combination of atmospheric coastal towns, charming mountain villages and rugged nature. This makes it the perfect base for leisurely exploring the surroundings.
What we liked so much about L’Île-Rousse is that the town and the beach blend seamlessly. During the day, you can rent a sunbed at one of the beach bars or settle down for a drink with a sea view. As soon as the sun sets, the atmosphere completely changes. The beach bars set up their tables in the sand, and you can enjoy a leisurely dinner with your feet in the sand or have another drink while watching the sunset.
From L'ÃŽle-Rousse, you can easily drive to some of the most beautiful villages in Balagne. Pine cone, Saint Antonino and Lumio are each worth a visit. Fancy something a bit more lively? Then a day or evening out Calvi, with its cosy harbour and impressive citadel, shouldn't really be missed.
The Balagne region in Northwest Corsica has it all: beaches, villages, and magnificent natural scenery..
There's plenty to do for nature lovers too. One of the nicest discoveries during our trip was the Mud Valley, where you can jump into the clear water from high rocks – if you dare. Do you prefer hiking? Then there is Bonifatu Forest Highly recommended. Here you can combine a beautiful hike with a refreshing dip in one of the *piscines naturelles*, natural pools with clear mountain water. Or drive to the Asco Gorges, where after a good scramble over the rocks, you're rewarded with ice-cold, crystal-clear mountain water and, above all, a great deal of peace.
Also, be sure to leave enough time for L'ÃŽle-Rousse itself. For example, walk to the lighthouse on the peninsula. Stone. On the way, we have a nice tip. Walk past the hotel and follow the path upwards. If you see a ruined building on the other side (we mean the old customs gate, not the Genoese tower)? Then you're on the right track. From there, you can more easily descend to a small, hidden bay that we found to be a great snorkelling spot. The very best snorkelling spot, by the way, we eventually discovered right in the village, at the beach bar A Casella. Here we saw by far the most fish and even spotted an octopus.
When it comes to food, L'Île-Rousse is also the right place for you. You'll find more than enough restaurants in the cosy streets. We ate wonderfully at Little Thai and Wine cellar. It's also great fun to get a takeaway meal one evening and eat it on the beach. You won't be the only one with this brilliant idea. For example, get a focaccia from L'Épicerie du Marché Couvert, opt for a vegetarian takeaway Flagrant Délice, take a pizza from one of the many pizzerias or pop into Spiga bakery, which also sells meals.
Left: a walk in the Gorges de l’Asco. Top right: the bay of Pietra where you can snorkel so well and have it all to yourself. Bottom right: the lively beach of L’Île-Rousse with its many beach bars.
Second stop: Corte and surrounding area
After a few days by the coast, it's time for a completely different landscape. We're swapping the azure blue sea and flip-flops for winding mountain roads, dense forests, and sturdy walking boots. It's time to head into the mountains. It's precisely this contrast that makes a tour of Corsica so special. For this second stop, we already have a fantastic hotel tip: Hotel E Caselle, a stylish design hotel – with original Berlin-esque art – in the middle of nature. The swimming pool is lovely and very pleasant, but perhaps we liked the mountain stream with its little beach that flows past the hotel even more. We slept in a hotel room that is actually a detached cottage in the valley, complete with its own garden, sun loungers, and a hammock. An idyllic spot where you can also completely relax!
Furthermore, the hotel is the perfect base for exploring the mountainous interior. For example, the famous GR20, one of the most challenging and beautiful multi-day hiking routes in Europe, passes through this region. The Bonifatu Forest and the Restonica Valley are also a short drive away.
Overnight stay near Corte at Hotel E Caselle.
Our favourite ritual? Heading into the mountains during the day, relaxing at the hotel at the end of the afternoon, and then having dinner in Corte in the evening. This atmospheric university town has fewer than eight thousand inhabitants, but boasts over five thousand students at Corsica's only university. This creates a unique atmosphere that you won't find anywhere else on the island. You can stroll through photogenic streets, drink fresh spring water from one of the fountains (you really can there!), and settle down at one of the many terraces. In our opinion, Corte is therefore a place you definitely want to add to your itinerary.
For a completely different atmosphere, pay a visit to the inland student city of Corte.
Third stop: Santa Giulia, the highlight for beach and snorkelling lovers
If you ask us what the absolute highlight of Corsica is, then it is without a doubt Santa Giulia and its surroundings. It is for good reason that we chose to stay here for ten days. Here you will find the white sandy beaches and the azure blue sea that the island is so famous for. The atmosphere is somewhat reminiscent of the French Riviera, With stylish beach bars, luxury villas, and a relaxed holiday atmosphere. What particularly struck us was how peaceful and laid-back it feels here. And that in July! Despite being there in the middle of high season, there was always a quiet spot on the beach, a table at a beach bar, and we could rent a SUP without a reservation. Exactly how you hope a holiday feels!
To make your stay in this part of Corsica complete, we also have a hotel tip. Hotel Alivi di Santa Giulia ranks high on the list of most beautiful hotels we've ever stayed in. The small-scale boutique hotel overlooks the bay and has an incredible swimming pool. But perhaps the highlight? Their breakfast! Every morning, breakfast by the pool with fresh summer fruit, warm brioche, fresh coffee and views over the azure bay. We'd go back just for that.
Hotel Alivi di Santa Giulia is a lovely boutique hotel near the sea, on the east coast of Corsica.
There's no shortage of charming beach bars either. Santa Giulia is located on a large, horseshoe-shaped bay, with cosy beach bars on both sides and a long white sandy beach in the middle. You can walk from one side to the other, constantly gazing out at the clear blue water along the way. Our favourite is Fort. Perfect for an afternoon drink with a game or a dinner with a sea view. Is the truffle pasta still on the menu? Then we know what we're having...
As a beach lover, you really shouldn't skip Palombaggia beach either. This is perhaps the most famous beach in Corsica and therefore a bit busier than Santa Giulia, but still absolutely worth visiting. You'll find nice beach bars there, such as Baggia Beach and a bit simpler The Cracknel. You should definitely set aside an afternoon for this and don't forget your snorkel mask. A lovely idea is to have lunch first at one of the beach cafes and then walk along the unpaved path towards Plage de Tamaricciu. Along that path lies a small, hidden cove where we probably had the best snorkelling of the whole trip. You could easily miss it, so keep a good look out.
Do you love bounty beaches, good beach bars, and hidden snorkelling coves? Then Palombaggia beach is the place for you!
Also use Santa Giulia as a base to explore the surrounding area. Bonifacio It is about a thirty-minute drive away and is perhaps the most impressive town in Corsica. The old fortified town literally perches on top of white limestone cliffs. Be sure to walk down the Escalier du Roi d’Aragon here, a steep staircase carved into the rocks. According to legend, it was built in one night by the troops of the King of Aragon, but it is more likely that monks carved out the stairs centuries ago to reach a fresh water spring. Down below, you will be rewarded with spectacular sea views. Porto-Vecchio is also nearby and, in our opinion, the perfect place for an evening out. Wander through the narrow streets of the old town, settle down on a cosy terrace, and end the evening with a good restaurant meal. The town really comes to life, especially after sunset.
Fancy a change from the beach for a day? Then drive to The natural swimming pools of Cavu. Don't be put off by reviews that say it gets crowded. With so many natural pools, visitors naturally spread out and you can always find a nice spot. We enjoyed it so much that we actually went there twice during our trip. Are you a hiker? Then also make time for a day (or half-day) hike to the waterfall Piscia di Ghjaddu Waterfall. In about an hour and a half, you'll walk through the forest to an impressive waterfall of about sixty metres high. The last section is a bit steeper, but it's precisely this variation that makes this walk so enjoyable. This way, you'll discover a completely different side of Corsica than the dazzling white beaches where you might have been lying the day before.
Left: hike to the waterfall (Cascade de Piscia di Ghjaddu), right: the stairs in BonifaciOh.
Another practical tip
Please note that Corsica is slightly more expensive than a holiday on the French mainland. Eating out and accommodation in particular can add up, especially if you like to eat out every evening. So, take this into account in your budget so that you are not faced with any surprises along the way.
Corsica Road Trip: two beautiful routes for the final days
After Santa Giulia, you actually have two excellent options for concluding your road trip. If you drive via the rugged west coast towards Ajaccio, you'll encounter what is possibly Corsica's most beautiful driving route. Along the way, red rocks, mountain passes, and small bays alternate, and you'll want to stop every few kilometres for a photo. If you choose to drive back towards Bastia, you'll get to experience the green valleys, charming villages, and calm northern coast one last time. Whichever route you choose, there really isn't a wrong decision. For us, Corsica is a destination where everything comes together. You'll find pristine white beaches and clear blue water, but also rugged mountains, dense forests, atmospheric villages, and perhaps the most stunning driving routes in Europe. It is precisely this variety that made us feel, after three weeks, that we had hardly seen anything. And that's exactly why we already know we'll be going back someday!
We hope this route helps you fall in love with Corsica as much as we have. Have a great time planning your tour!
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Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
