Have you seen the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the busy old Paris? Then head to the thirteenth arrondissement. A district that feels completely different and is actually a city trip in itself. You can easily spend two days here without getting bored. We'll take you to the Asian district, the almost village-like Butte-aux-Cailles and many more places where you'll feel like you're not in Paris for a while. Or are you?.
The Thirteenth arrondissement, a completely different Paris
The Thirteenth arrondissement is one of those districts that people tend to overlook, yet it's actually one of the most diverse and surprising parts of Paris. In fact, we ended up here because several followers tipped us off about this neighbourhood. And honestly, you don’t really get a good or attractive impression of it through blogs and Google Maps. That’s precisely why we were so surprised; it’s absolutely brilliant!
Since we're already familiar with classic Paris around the Eiffel Tower, we thought, ‘Okay, we'll do this.’ And that turned out to be a really good choice. You'll still find those beautiful, stately Parisian buildings here, but mixed with high-rises, street art, and neighbourhoods that all have their own vibe. From the lively Asian district to the almost village-like Butte-aux-Cailles, where it feels like you're momentarily out of the city. So it's a mix of Paris as you know it – with French bistros and classic facades – but also tall residential towers and more 1960s-style construction. Sometimes it almost feels like you're walking through Hong Kong. And we're deliberately saying 'Asian quarter' and not Chinatown, because the offering is much broader, with mainly a lot of Vietnamese and Korean, and alongside that, a mix of other Asian cuisines.
A walk through Butte-aux-Cailles
Start your route in Butte-aux-Cailles, This is one of the nicest parts of the thirteenth arrondissement. It doesn't feel like Paris at all, but more like a small village in the city. This is also because this neighbourhood used to be its own village, built on a hill outside the city. That quirky atmosphere has pretty much always remained. You can see it in the low houses, narrow streets, and the fact that there are no grand boulevards here like in the rest of Paris. Instead, you'll find lots of street art, small squares and a rather creative, bohemian vibe. It has also been a place where artists and creators have felt at home for years.
Just having a lovely wander and ducking down the occasional side street is the best way to do it here. Before you know it, two to three hours will have flown by. You'll find somewhere good for lunch here too. A sustainable tip is At Nathalie's, A small, super-French place. Many of the dishes are vegetarian and organic. My tip: a creamy polenta with Parmesan cheese, aubergine stew, pesto, almonds and sheep's cheese. Wow!
Looking for a sustainable and fantastic lunch spot in Butte-aux-Cailles in Paris? Then Chez Nathalie is the tip.
From Butte-aux-Cailles to the Asian district
You can take a lovely walk from Butte-aux-Cailles towards the Asian district. Walk via Rue Bobillot and then via Place d’Italie, to Avenue de Choisy and of course Parc de Choisy. On a nice day, you can chill out here! Feeling peckish or thirsty? In the park, you'll also find a focaccia stand., Guinguette in Choisy Park, where you can sit in deckchairs overlooking the park. Afterwards, take a stroll through the Asian district. Wander around, taste one of the many delicacies (more on this below), discover the street art and walk over Les Olympiades, the raised walkways where it really feels different from the rest of Paris.
Butte-aux-Cailles and the Asian district together are enough for two great days in the 13th arrondissement.
Food tour through the Asian district of Paris
Okay, and now it feels a little like we're turning into a food blog, but oh my, the Asian district in Paris is truly a food mecca for vegetarians too. Where do you even begin?
At the top of your greener list: Vietnamese kitchen. Fully vegetarian and absolutely amazing. I'd found this restaurant before leaving, and on arrival, sustainable locals also recommended it. Many Vietnamese classics, but vegetarian and often entirely vegan. And everything is just right. The sort of place where you'll want to try everything. Also check out the dessert menu. You can worry about diets when you get home.
Are you going to the 13th in Paris? Then put Bếp Việt on your greener list. Insanely delicious food and everything is vegetarian.
Thereafter, make sure you save enough room for dessert, as this neighbourhood also offers a great many Asian sweet treats. Something the Asian cuisine in the Netherlands isn't particularly known for, so now's your chance to indulge. Flavours you won't easily taste anywhere else. You must visit Patisserie de Choisy, a classic bakery where Asian and French influences meet. Difficult to choose? Trust us, the melon bun with strawberry and cream is a winner. Tip: also get a soufflé pancake – even if it's on the second day Fluffy. You will genuinely not find this anywhere else, a bit like a cross between a pancake and a marshmallow, with fresh fruit and cream. There was also a long queue with us. Khai Tri, where there are also a number of vegetarian Bánh mì (sandwiches) on the menu. Also nice for a happy hour at The Golden Age, You're then really in the heart of the neighbourhood. Asia lovers will feel right at home here. Hong Kong vibes, and that's less than five hours from home.
An endless choice of Asian restaurants, street art and a mix of old and new: that's the thirteenth. In the middle is the melon bun from Patisserie de Choisy.
Sustainable hotel tip in Paris, 13th arrondissemente!
We also have a great hotel tip in this neighbourhood: Urban Bivouac. A lovely and affordable hotel with a clear sustainable approach. They are in the process of obtaining the Green Key certification and make conscious choices, from less packaging at breakfast to the use of organic and eco-friendly products. We stayed in the suite here and it was truly ideal as a family. The suite is spacious with essentially two open areas, so everyone has their own space. With two TVs, a Chromecast – hooray – and even Bluetooth speakers in the ceiling. So you can just play your own playlist tunes in your room. And not unimportant: a good breakfast with many organic products too. And a nice detail: in the breakfast room, there is a large map of Paris where guests leave their favourite tips with post-its and drawing pins that they stick on the map. Take a look and you’ll quickly have a few new places to check out. And of course, we’ve also left a few of our tips, so who knows, you might come across them when you’re there!
Urban Bivouac is a good value hotel in Paris, right in the middle of the 13th arrondissement's Asian quarter. The hotel also has a sustainable mission.
Restaurant tip in 13e District: Italian food hall La FelicitÃ
What is also great in the thirteenth is: go for dinner in the evening at Happiness. A large Italian food hall where you can easily spend the entire evening. Lots of choices, plenty of vegetarian options too, and simply a very pleasant place where Parisians gather. There was even dancing while we were there. And a nice detail: the tastiest dish here is a vegetarian pasta: the truffle pasta. Honestly, you have to try it. We hope to find the recipe again someday!
Before you dive into the food hall, a tip: pop into the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand. This is one of France's largest and most modern libraries, with those four glass towers that you can already see from the outside. Quite impressive to take in briefly. It is a shame, however, that you need a pass for the most beautiful part, the lower garden with views of the trees. So you can't just get in there. But still nice to see if you're heading that way for your Italian evening!
If you're in the thirteenth, you're in luck with this Italian food hall around the corner.
The Coulée Verte, walking on an old railway line
Rent a Vélib’ in Paris. For twenty euros per person, you get three days' access, and you can grab a bike anywhere in the city. Cycle from the 13th arrondissement towards the Coulée Verte René-Dumont in the twelfth. You'll be there in fifteen minutes! This is an old railway line that has been converted into a green walking route. You walk here above the city, amidst the greenery, with occasional views of the streets below you. A totally different vibe and the rest of Paris. The fifth, with the Luxembourg Garden, is also less than a fifteen-minute bike ride away. If you stay in the thirteenth, you can perfectly combine all of this.
A great tip in Paris is a walk (or part of it) along the five-kilometre-long old railway line: Coulée Verte René-Dumont.
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Your Paris tips for the 13th arrondissement
Hopefully you now have a nice route - or rather a greener one itinerary – for one or two days in and around the Thirteenth arrondissement. From street art to hidden village lanes, from Asian food spots to green walking routes just outside the district: this part of Paris shows that the city is so much more than just the well-known highlights. Do you have any nice tips for this neighbourhood? Let us know! We are happy to share our readers' most enjoyable discoveries.
More routes through Paris:
- See also The route through Oberkampf (11th arrondissement)!
- See also The itinerary for popular Le Marais.
- See also the itinerary for the seventh district.
Photo credits: thegreenlist.nl.
